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  • Can These $500 Smart Shades Stop My Dogs From Yelling at My Neighbor?

    I didn’t decide to install smart shades because I was desperate to automate my windows.

    I installed them because my dog wouldn’t stop barking at my neighbor!

    Every time our neighbor walked through his own yard, my dogs would spot him through the kitchen window and immediately launch into full-scale neighborhood alert mode. Apparently the audacity of someone using their own backyard was simply too much to tolerate.

    So when SmartWings offered to send me one of their smart shades for review, I figured this was the perfect opportunity to solve a real-world problem while also seeing how well the shades integrate with Home Assistant.

    The question was simple: would smart shades help reduce the barking?

    As it turns out, the answer is… complicated.

    Who is Smart Wings?

    Smart Wings is a Texas-based company that specializes in custom motorized window coverings. They offer a wide range of products including roller shades, Roman shades, blinds, and drapes, along with support for several smart home ecosystems.

    Depending on the motor you choose, Smart Wings shades can work with platforms such as Amazon Alexa, Google Home, Apple Home, SmartThings, and Home Assistant. For this review, I tested one of their Linen Roman Shades equipped with a Zigbee motor.

    Since every shade is custom-made, there are a lot of configuration options available, which can be both a blessing and a curse.

    Ordering the Shades

    For this part of the review, I let my wife take the lead because she’s far more interested in fabrics, colors, and all the feng shui-related decisions that usually cause my eyes to glaze over.

    According to her, the Smart Wings website was easy to navigate and made it simple to browse through the various styles, fabrics, and color options. One feature she especially appreciated was the ability to order fabric samples before making a final decision.

    The ordering process does involve more decisions than simply entering your window dimensions. You’ll need to choose things like mounting style, fabric type, motor location, control options, and more. While that may seem overwhelming at first, those choices ultimately allow you to tailor the shade to your specific installation.

    The one area she found confusing was selecting the motor.

    Choosing the Right Motor

    If there’s one technical decision you’ll need to make during the ordering process, it’s choosing the motor.

    Smart Wings offers several motor options that support different smart home technologies. The standard motor is included at no additional cost and still works with a remote, but it doesn’t offer any smart home integration.

    If you want smart home support, you’ll need to upgrade. The Zigbee motor I selected added $29 to the price, while the Matter-over-Thread option adds about $94.

    Since I already run Home Assistant with an existing Zigbee network, choosing the Zigbee motor was an easy decision.

    The important thing to remember is that the motor determines how the shade communicates with your smart home platform. If you’re heavily invested in Apple Home, for example, the Matter-over-Thread option may be a better fit.

    Personally, I think Smart Wings could improve this part of the ordering experience by offering a simple wizard that asks which smart home platform you use and then recommends the best motor options.

    Price and Shipping

    The particular configuration I tested came in at roughly $522.

    That price included the upgraded remote control and the optional solar charging panel, which added about $10 and $50 respectively.

    Because these shades are custom-made and shipped from China, you’ll also need to account for some production and shipping time. In my case, I placed the order on April 27th and received the shades on May 15th, which was consistent with Smart Wings’ published delivery estimates.

    What’s In the Box?

    Inside the box, we have-

    • * The custom Roman shade
    • * Remote control
    • * Mounting hardware
    • * Installation manuals
    • * USB-C charging cable
    • * Optional solar charging panel (if ordered)

    Overall, everything arrived well packaged and ready for installation.

    Installation and Setup

    Installation was mostly straightforward, although I did run into one small issue.

    Neither the shades nor the manual clearly identified which side was the front and which side was the back. Once I figured that out, the rest of the installation went smoothly.

    I shared that feedback with my contact at Smart Wings, and they were very receptive to the suggestion, so hopefully that’s something they’ll improve in future documentation. One thing I really appreciated was that the remote arrived pre-programmed. Pairing took only a few seconds because everything was already configured from the factory.

    The only awkward part of setup involved accessing the pairing button on the motor itself. It’s hidden on the back of the motor and recessed enough that you’ll probably need a small tool to press it.

    In my installation, the motor sits fairly close to the mounting surface, making the button difficult to access after installation. Looking back, I’d recommend pairing and configuring everything before mounting the shade.

    Thankfully, this is something you’ll probably only need to do once.

    Home Assistant Integration

    One of my primary goals was to automate the shades through Home Assistant.

    The plan was simple: Close the shades at dusk and Open the shades at dawn!

    Unfortunately, things didn’t go exactly as planned.

    The standard Open and Close commands weren’t behaving correctly within Home Assistant. I spent several hours troubleshooting the issue, reviewing Zigbee settings, testing automations, and checking device configurations.

    At the time of filming, I wasn’t able to determine whether the problem was related to the motor firmware, Zigbee integration, or Home Assistant itself.

    Fortunately, there was an easy workaround.

    Using absolute position values worked perfectly. Setting the shade to 0% fully closed it, while 100% fully opened it. Every position in between worked exactly as expected.

    As a result, I simply changed my automations to use position values instead of Open and Close commands, and everything worked flawlessly.

    Problem solved.

    Mostly.

    Remote Control Performance

    The upgraded 15-channel remote performed exactly as expected.

    My shade arrived assigned to Channel 3, and if I decide to add more shades later, I can simply assign them to different channels while continuing to use the same remote.

    The remote can also be used to adjust motor settings, upper and lower travel limits, and even motor speed.

    At the default setting, it took roughly 15 seconds for the shade to fully open from the closed position.

    Day-to-Day Use

    After spending some time with the shade, I can honestly say I enjoy using it.

    The fabric looks great, the motor is reasonably quiet, the remote is responsive, and the overall experience feels polished. Small details like the pre-programmed remote help make setup easier and contribute to a more premium feel.

    That said, I did encounter a few documentation inconsistencies and translation quirks that occasionally made installation and troubleshooting more difficult than necessary.

    And because I’ve only been using the shade for a short period of time, I can’t really comment on long-term reliability. Whether the motor performs just as well 30, 90, or 365 days from now is something only time will tell.

    On the plus side, Smart Wings backs the motor with a 3-year warranty, which does provide some extra peace of mind.

    Did It Solve My Dog Problem?

    Remember the original goal?

    Stopping the dogs from barking at the neighbor? Well… The dogs are still barking.

    The only difference is that now they’re barking at the shades that were installed to stop them from barking at the neighbor.

    So instead of solving one problem, I may have accidentally created a brand-new one.

    I’m still not entirely convinced I’m not being punked.

    Final Thoughts

    Overall, I came away impressed with the Smart Wings experience.

    The ordering process was straightforward, the customization options were extensive, installation was relatively easy, and the Home Assistant integration worked well once I switched to position-based controls.

    They’re definitely not cheap, but if you’re looking for custom motorized shades that integrate into a smart home ecosystem, Smart Wings offers a compelling option with plenty of flexibility.

    As for whether they’re worth over $500, that ultimately depends on how much value you place on convenience, automation, and custom-made window coverings.

    For me, the shades worked well.

    The dogs, however, remain unconvinced. 😄

  • Can a 10-Year-Old Mini PC Still Game?

    So I recently stumbled across an old Intel Skull Canyon NUC that had been sitting in a closet for the last couple of years. It was still running Windows 10, and when I say “running,” I’m being pretty generous. Web browsing was sluggish, YouTube playback dropped frames constantly, boot times felt endless, and the overall experience made it clear this machine had seen better days.

    To be fair, we’re talking about a system with only 8GB of RAM and a 6th-generation Intel Core i7 processor. On the other hand, it does have Intel’s Iris Pro 580 graphics, which were surprisingly capable for integrated graphics back when this machine was released. It also offers plenty of connectivity, including Thunderbolt 3, Gigabit Ethernet, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and support for up to three displays.

    Rather than letting it continue collecting dust, I decided to see if Linux could breathe some new life into it.

    Why I Chose Bazzite

    Screenshot

    When I asked my audience which Linux gaming distribution they preferred, the results weren’t even close. Bazzite received roughly 71% of the vote, while ChimeraOS and Batocera were tied at around 14% each.

    That made the decision pretty easy.

    Bazzite is based on Fedora Atomic and aims to provide an experience similar to SteamOS. It comes with Steam, Lutris, gaming drivers, controller support, and a variety of gaming-focused optimizations right out of the box. Through Lutris and other launchers, it can also access games from platforms like GOG, and even supports Android applications through Waydroid.

    Before installing anything, I updated the NUC’s BIOS, replaced the dead CMOS battery, and cleaned out years of dust accumulation so the cooling fan would stop sounding like a small aircraft preparing for takeoff.

    Installing Bazzite

    My original goal was to transform this NUC into a living room gaming machine using Steam Gaming Mode. Unfortunately, Gaming Mode isn’t supported on this particular hardware, so I went with the KDE desktop version instead.

    After flashing the installer to a USB drive with Balena Etcher, installation was quick and painless thanks to the NUC’s 500GB NVMe SSD.

    Once the system was up and running, I installed EmuDeck. If you’re not familiar with it, EmuDeck automates much of the emulator setup process and makes transferring ROMs significantly easier. It removes a lot of the hassle normally associated with emulation.

    Testing Emulation Performance

    The first game I loaded up was God of War II for the PlayStation 2.

    Honestly, I was impressed. Gameplay felt smooth, controls were responsive, audio stayed perfectly synchronized, and I didn’t experience any crashes or noticeable slowdowns. Using an Xbox 360 controller felt completely natural.

    Next, I fired up Gran Turismo 4. Performance was just as solid, although my driving certainly wasn’t. Despite what the footage may suggest, no alcohol was involved during testing—I simply have terrible racing-game skills.

    Moving on to GameCube emulation, I tested The Legend of Zelda: The Wind Waker with shaders enabled. Once again, performance was excellent. Controls felt responsive, audio was crisp, and I didn’t encounter any lag.

    As a longtime Metroid fan, I couldn’t resist trying Metroid Prime 2: Echoes. The result was more of the same: smooth gameplay, responsive controls, and no stuttering whatsoever.

    At this point, it was becoming clear that this old NUC still had plenty of life left in it when it came to sixth-generation console emulation.

    How Did Steam Games Perform?

    After spending time with emulators, it was time to move over to native PC gaming through Steam.

    Fallout: New Vegas

    Running at 1280×1024 with mostly high settings, Fallout: New Vegas consistently delivered between 65 and 75 FPS. For a ten-year-old mini PC, that’s pretty impressive and made for a very enjoyable experience.

    Borderlands 2

    Borderlands 2 performed similarly. Frame rates were slightly lower, but gameplay remained smooth and responsive with no major issues.

    F.E.A.R.

    One of the biggest surprises was the original F.E.A.R.

    This game was notoriously demanding when it launched nearly two decades ago thanks to its advanced lighting and shadow effects. On the Skull Canyon NUC, however, it regularly exceeded 120 FPS and felt fantastic to play.

    It also remains just as creepy as I remember.

    Contra: Operation Galuga

    I also spent some time playing Contra: Operation Galuga, a modern reimagining of the classic Contra series.

    The game ran smoothly, controls were responsive, audio worked flawlessly, and I experienced no crashes or major performance problems. More importantly, it was simply a lot of fun.

    Hades

    The original Hades was another standout.

    Running at 1920×1080, frame rates generally stayed between 90 and 110 FPS. Gameplay felt incredibly smooth, controller response was excellent, and I didn’t encounter any lag whatsoever.

    The Games That Didn’t Work So Well

    Half-Life 2

    Half-Life 2 initially crashed at the welcome screen. Enabling Proton compatibility mode allowed me to play briefly, but the game eventually crashed again.

    There are probably fixes available, but for this test I wanted to evaluate the out-of-the-box experience rather than spend hours troubleshooting individual games.

    Doom Eternal

    Doom Eternal proved to be too much for the hardware.

    The game requires at least 4GB of dedicated video memory, which is significantly more than this NUC can provide. I repeatedly ran into memory-related errors before I could perform any meaningful testing.

    Counter-Strike 2

    Counter-Strike 2 came surprisingly close to being playable. I was able to navigate menus and nearly enter a match, but the game frequently hung and eventually crashed.

    Even so, the fact that a modern AAA title got that far on a decade-old mini PC was impressive in its own way.

    Final Thoughts

    Going into this project, I wasn’t expecting much.

    After all, this is a ten-year-old mini PC with only 8GB of RAM that had spent years collecting dust in a closet. Yet after installing Bazzite, it turned into a surprisingly capable little gaming machine.

    No, it isn’t going to replace a modern gaming desktop. It’s not going to become a PlayStation 3 emulation powerhouse, either. But for GameCube, Wii, PlayStation 2 emulation, older Steam games, and even some newer titles, it delivered a much better experience than I expected.

    Would Fedora, Nobara, ChimeraOS, or Batocera have produced similar results? Probably. But what impressed me most wasn’t necessarily Bazzite itself—it was discovering just how much life was still left in this old hardware.

    Sometimes the best upgrade isn’t buying something new. It’s finding a new purpose for something you already own.

    So now I’m curious: What’s the oldest computer you’ve managed to game on recently, and what Linux distribution are you using?

  • JetKVM is the most affordable and easiest remote access tool!

    The Headless Server Problem

    If you run any kind of homelab setup, there’s a good chance you’ve eventually run into this situation: a server suddenly refuses to boot, SSH stops responding, or a Linux update leaves the machine hanging at a black screen. And because the system is “headless,” meaning there’s no monitor or keyboard attached, troubleshooting suddenly becomes a whole lot more annoying.

    Why Enterprise Servers Handle This Better

    If you’re using enterprise-style server hardware, there’s a good chance your motherboard already includes something called IPMI, or Intelligent Platform Management Interface. Even though the name sounds complicated, the idea is actually pretty simple. It allows you to remotely interact with the physical machine itself, even if the operating system crashes or the computer won’t boot.

    What Is an IP-KVM?

    The challenge is that most consumer motherboards, mini PCs, and single-board computers don’t include those remote management features. That’s where IP-KVM devices come in. “IP-KVM” stands for keyboard, video, and mouse over IP, meaning these devices let you remotely view and control another computer over your network, even at the BIOS or boot level.

    Enter JetKVM

    JetKVM takes the IP-KVM idea and turns it into a much more polished plug-and-play appliance. In my case, I connected it to my ZimaBoard 2, which I use as my second Proxmox node. The setup was simple: HDMI from the ZimaBoard into the JetKVM, USB-C for keyboard and mouse control, and Ethernet for network access.

    Using JetKVM in the Browser

    Once JetKVM boots, it displays its IP address on the built-in screen. From there, you type that address into a browser on another computer and get a remote console view of the machine. In my case, I could access the Proxmox CLI almost like I was sitting directly in front of the ZimaBoard with a monitor and keyboard.

    Why This Is Different from SSH or Remote Desktop

    The big advantage is that JetKVM works underneath the operating system. SSH, Remote Desktop, VNC, and similar tools all depend on the operating system being functional. But with KVM-over-IP, you can still see and interact with the machine even if it’s frozen, stuck at GRUB, sitting in the BIOS, or refusing to boot.

    JetKVM Cloud and Remote Access

    By default, JetKVM is designed for local network access, but it also supports JetKVM Cloud for remote access outside your home network. You enable remote access in the settings, log in with a Google account, and the device appears in the cloud dashboard. JetKVM says the connection is encrypted end-to-end, and it uses WebRTC for the remote connection.

    Virtual Media and ISO Mounting

    Another useful feature is virtual media support. JetKVM can store ISO files directly on the device, and it also supports mounting installation media through a public URL. That means you can remotely boot installers or recovery environments without physically touching the machine.

    Power Control Requires an Add-On

    JetKVM can control the keyboard, mouse, and video side of things by itself, but it can’t physically power a device on or off unless you use the optional DC Power Control accessory. That add-on sits inline with supported barrel-jack powered devices and lets JetKVM cut and restore power remotely.

    Performance and Responsiveness

    Performance was better than I expected. It doesn’t feel exactly like sitting physically in front of the machine, but for BIOS navigation, Linux installs, troubleshooting, and general server management, it felt very usable. The video quality was fine, keyboard input was responsive, and the web interface stayed simple.

    Who JetKVM Is Really For

    JetKVM probably isn’t necessary if you only have one desktop sitting next to your monitor. But once you start running multiple systems, Proxmox nodes, TrueNAS boxes, Docker servers, or other always-on services, having low-level remote access becomes incredibly useful.

    Final Thoughts

    JetKVM helps bridge the gap between enterprise-style remote management and the consumer hardware many of us actually use in homelabs. It’s one of those tools you may not fully appreciate until a system refuses to boot and you realize you can recover it remotely without ever plugging in a monitor.

    ✅ Hardware Used :

    *Certain links are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission on qualifying purchases—at no additional cost to you.

  • Should You Install TrueNAS on the UGREEN DXP 4800 Pro NAS?

    A lot of homelabers seem pretty split right now between going fully DIY with something like TrueNAS or Unraid, or just buying a more turnkey NAS from companies like  Synology, QNAP, or  UGREEN and obviously, both approaches have their pros and cons.

    DIY platforms usually give you a lot more flexibility and control over how everything works, while turnkey NAS systems tend to focus more on simplicity and ease of use. But what makes the UGREEN NAS DXP4800 Pro interesting is that it kind of sits somewhere in the middle of those two worlds.

    You still get the simpler UGOS setup and management side of things, but the hardware itself also feels surprisingly flexible since you’re not locked into proprietary RAM or storage upgrades. People have also been experimenting with things like Proxmox VE and TrueNAS on the hardware as well.

    In fact, I recently ran a couple polls on the channel asking whether people preferred more turnkey NAS platforms or more DIY solutions, and most people leaned heavily toward the DIY side of things, which honestly didn’t surprise me.

    So rather than turning this into another NAS review full of spreadsheets and synthetic benchmarks, the real question I wanted to answer was this:

    Can the UGREEN DXP4800 Pro still scratch that DIY homelab itch while also keeping some of the simplicity of a turnkey NAS?

    UGREEN sent me the DXP4800 Pro along with a few Seagate IronWolf drives to test out at no charge, but no money changed hands and, as always, all opinions are my own.

    Hardware and First Impressions

    Before getting too deep into TrueNAS testing, I first wanted to get UGOS set up and take a quick look at what the overall UGREEN ecosystem and user experience actually feels like.

    Hardware-wise, the DXP4800 Pro is a 4-bay NAS supporting up to 144TB of storage with a surprisingly generous mix of connectivity options. You’ve got HDMI out capable of 4K at 60Hz, an SD card slot for quickly importing footage or photos, multiple high-speed USB ports including 10Gb USB-C, and dual networking ports including both 10GbE and 2.5GbE.

    Internally, the system is powered by Intel’s Core i3-1315U processor and ships with 8GB of RAM. There are also two DDR5 memory slots supporting up to 96GB of RAM along with dual M.2 NVMe slots which can be used either for cache or additional storage pools.

    So from a hardware perspective, this honestly feels much closer to a compact homelab server than just a basic file storage box.

    Installing the drives was also pretty straightforward since the DXP4800 Pro uses a mostly tool-less design for mounting standard 3.5-inch drives into the sliding bays, while 2.5-inch drives use the included mounting screws already attached to the trays.

    Once installed, the drive trays slide in with a satisfying click, and the bays can also be locked using the included keys if you want a little extra security.

    And yes, the standard SATA hard drive bays are hot swappable on NASync series devices like the DXP4800 Pro, although according to UGREEN’s documentation, hot swapping SSDs and NVMe drives is not officially supported.

    Setting Up UGOS

    For my testing, I also installed a 256GB Kingspec NVMe SSD by removing the bottom cover and securing it with the included screws.

    With all the drives installed, I plugged the NAS into my network, connected the included 120W power adapter, and powered the system on.

    To initially register and connect to the NAS, you’ve got a few different options. You can use the official mobile app, navigate to find.ugnas.com in your browser, or install the desktop application, which is what I ended up doing.

    The setup process itself was honestly very simple. The software walks you through creating your administrator account and registering the NAS, then from there you can begin creating storage pools and configuring the filesystem.

    One thing I liked seeing was support for JBOD, or “Just a Bunch Of Disks,” which can be useful if you have mismatched drive sizes and simply want to maximize available storage capacity. That said, JBOD does not provide any redundancy or protection against drive failure like RAID configurations do.

    For my testing, I chose RAID 5 using Btrfs instead of ext4 so I’d have better snapshot support.

    Now one thing worth mentioning is that Btrfs RAID5 and RAID6 have had a somewhat controversial reputation over the years, which is one reason many homelab users still prefer ZFS for parity-based storage pools.

    A lot of the concern historically centered around parity consistency during unexpected power loss while data is actively being written, which is also why using a UPS is generally a smart idea regardless of the filesystem you choose.

    That said, I’ve personally been running Btrfs RAID5 on another UGREEN NAS for over a year now without issues — though as always, make sure you have proper backups and do your own research.

    Apps, Features, and Security

    After getting storage configured, I enabled SMB, WebDAV, FTP, Bonjour, and SSH, adjusted some permissions, created another user account, and configured a shared folder. Honestly, all of that was pretty easy.

    And if you do get stuck, there’s a built-in help section with links to tutorials and documentation directly inside the interface.

    Compared to something like Synology or QNAP, UGREEN’s app ecosystem is still relatively small, but it already includes a lot of the core functionality most people are probably looking for. Things like media streaming, snapshots, virtualization, cloud syncing, and Docker support are all already there.

    The Photos app also ties into UGREEN’s built-in AI model system for things like facial recognition, duplicate image detection, OCR text recognition, and even cat and dog breed recognition.

    Most of those AI features worked surprisingly well overall, although some parts still felt a little rough around the edges in my testing — particularly the pet breed recognition. I also noticed portions of UGREEN’s AI documentation felt somewhat incomplete, so I wasn’t really able to find a clear answer for a few of the issues I encountered.

    If you want remote access, UGOS also includes a feature called UGREENlink so you don’t have to deal with manual port forwarding. That said, if you’re especially security-conscious, you could always disable remote access entirely and instead use something like  TailscaleAttachment.tiff or your own VPN setup instead.

    I also liked several of the smaller security-focused touches throughout UGOS. SSH access can be limited to the local network, the system recommends using timed SSH sessions rather than leaving SSH permanently enabled, and there’s support for things like automatic IP blocking, firewall rules, TLS encryption settings, session management, certificate management, and built-in two-factor authentication.

    Overall, the platform seems to put a decent amount of focus on sensible security defaults and account protection right out of the box.

    Docker, Virtualization, and Media Streaming

    One area where I think a lot of people are probably going to spend time on a NAS like this is media streaming.

    For that, you can either install Jellyfin directly through the app store or deploy it yourself using Docker.

    Honestly, the Docker app reminded me a little bit of using Portainer. You basically search for an image, download it, and create the container. Very simple.

    There’s also a “Projects” feature that allows you to deploy multiple related containers together using a single YAML file. So instead of manually configuring every container individually, you can launch an entire stack at once — like the Joplin setup I showed running on my DXP6800 Pro which included both the application itself and a PostgreSQL database container.

    Power efficiency during testing was also pretty impressive. At idle, the DXP4800 Pro hovered around 31.5 watts.

    Even after running an Ubuntu virtual machine, allocating 4GB of RAM, installing Chromium, and simultaneously streaming a 20-minute 4K video through Jellyfin over 10GbE, the system only climbed to around 43–44 watts.

    Honestly, for a NAS with virtualization, Docker, 10Gb networking, and media streaming workloads, that’s pretty respectable.

    Installing TrueNAS

    Now let’s switch gears and install TrueNAS onto the 256GB NVMe drive I installed earlier so we can preserve the original UGOS installation.

    I also swapped in a separate set of 2TB IronWolf drives for this portion of the testing so I wouldn’t disturb the existing UGOS storage pools.

    I downloaded TrueNAS Community Edition version 25.10.3.1, flashed it to a USB drive using balenaEtcher, connected a monitor through HDMI, attached a keyboard and mouse dongle, and booted into the installer.

    Inside the BIOS, I enabled booting from the NVMe drive and disabled the system watchdog feature. Otherwise, the NAS would automatically reboot itself if it didn’t detect UGREEN OS running.

    After setting the TrueNAS USB installer as the primary boot device, I selected the 256GB NVMe SSD as the installation target and completed the installation.

    The process itself was actually pretty quick.

    Once installed, I configured networking, signed into the TrueNAS web interface, and immediately noticed one of the more classic ZFS behaviors: aggressive RAM caching.

    At first glance, memory usage looked surprisingly high even though I hadn’t created any pools yet, but that’s completely normal behavior for ZFS and one reason many DIY users prefer it.

    Power usage while mostly idle was still hovering around only 31.5–32 watts, which was honestly pretty impressive considering TrueNAS and its associated services were already running.

    The DIY Side of Things

    Once I created my ZFS mirror pool and enabled things like SSH and NFS, I started installing apps and virtual machines.

    And this is where the difference between turnkey and DIY platforms really becomes obvious.

    TrueNAS definitely has the more mature app ecosystem overall with a massive catalog of community-driven containerized applications. But compared to UGOS, there’s also a lot more manual configuration involved.

    You’re usually dealing with datasets, permissions, storage mappings, application paths, and network configuration before things work exactly the way you want.

    Long story short, TrueNAS expects you to think more like a system administrator.

    That added complexity gives you significantly more flexibility and control, but it also means there are a lot more moving parts involved compared to something like UGOS.

    For example, unlike UGOS — which includes a built-in browser-based VM console — I had to use a separate VNC application to remotely access my Ubuntu virtual machine installer inside TrueNAS.

    Power usage also climbed slightly higher under TrueNAS during heavier workloads. While streaming a local 4K video through Jellyfin and simultaneously installing Ubuntu 26.04 inside a VM, the system hovered around 51 watts, which honestly still seems pretty reasonable considering we were now running ZFS, virtualization, and media streaming workloads all at the same time.

    Final Thoughts

    After spending time with both UGOS and TrueNAS on the DXP4800 Pro, I really think UGREEN has found an interesting middle ground here.

    If you just want media streaming, backups, Docker, virtualization, simple remote access, and an easy-to-manage NAS, UGOS already feels surprisingly polished and approachable.

    But at the same time, the hardware itself also feels open enough that if you eventually want to experiment with something more DIY-focused like TrueNAS, Proxmox, or another operating system entirely, you can absolutely do that too.

    And honestly, I think that flexibility is a big reason these systems have become so popular in the homelab community recently.

    Personally, if I were setting something up for family members or somebody newer to self-hosting, I’d probably lean more toward leaving UGOS installed because it’s simpler and more approachable.

    But for people who enjoy deeper customization, virtualization, containers, advanced storage management, and tinkering with their systems, running something like TrueNAS on the hardware was actually a lot of fun.

    In the end though, I don’t really think this is about “UGOS versus TrueNAS.”

    It’s more about figuring out which approach fits you best.

    And with the Core i3 processor, support for up to 96GB of RAM, dual NVMe slots, and 10Gb networking, the DXP4800 Pro hardware itself feels very capable regardless of which direction you decide to go.

    And speaking of turkney NAS, i have a dedicated video on why I switched over to UGREEN after being a Synology customer for 15 years!

    💻 Hardware Used:

    ✅ Some links may be affiliate links, which help support me and help keep ads off here!

    1. 2TB Ironwolf HDD Used on TrueNAS: https://amzn.to/4uBXn9X
    2. UGREEN DXP4800 Pro: https://amzn.to/4uG8n67
    3. UGREEN DXP6800 Pro: https://amzn.to/4tKmKoF
    4. 4x 8TB Ironwolf HDD Used in 6800 Pro: https://amzn.to/4diniNt
    5. 256 Kingspec NVMe Drive: https://amzn.to/4ukfJvG

  • Build 3 Easy Projects with the Raspberry Pi Zero 2

    With Raspberry Pi 4 and 5 pricing still being a bit high lately, I wanted to see if the more affordable Raspberry Pi Zero 2 could still be a practical option for real-world projects—which, ironically, is now priced around what the Pi 5 used to cost. In this guide, we’re going to get the Zero 2 up and running, walk through a quick introduction, and then connect a motion sensor, LED, breadboard, and camera module to build a few simple automation projects using Python.

    And if you’re new here and enjoy Raspberry Pi and homelab tutorials like this, consider subscribing to Mackey Tech so you don’t miss future content.

    Raspberry Pi Zero 2 Overview

    The Raspberry Pi Zero 2 comes with a modest 512MB of RAM, but it’s powered by a quad-core 64-bit ARM Cortex-A53 running at 1GHz—the same CPU found in the Raspberry Pi 3. The WH variant includes built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, along with a pre-soldered 40-pin GPIO header that uses the same layout as the Raspberry Pi 3 through Pi 5, making it fully compatible with most GPIO-based projects.

    The board includes two Micro-USB ports—one for power and one for data. For peripherals like a keyboard or mouse, you’ll need a Micro USB OTG adapter, while the power port should be connected to a reliable 5V 2.5A power supply. If you already have a Raspberry Pi 4 or 5 adapter and a USB-C to Micro-USB cable, that will work just fine. For display output, the Pi Zero 2 uses Mini-HDMI, so you’ll need a Mini-HDMI to HDMI cable.

    Flashing Raspberry Pi OS

    To get started, we’ll flash a MicroSD card using the Raspberry Pi Imager. Select the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 as the device and choose the 32-bit version of Raspberry Pi OS. The 32-bit version is recommended here since it uses less RAM and runs more efficiently on the Zero 2’s limited memory.

    While flashing the OS, it’s a good idea to enable SSH, assign a hostname like ‘pizero2‘, configure your Wi-Fi, and create your user account so the system is ready to go immediately after boot.

    Once booted, take a moment to explore the desktop, open a terminal to verify your hostname and IP address, and optionally run tools like htop to monitor system resource usage. You can also open Thonny to see how lightweight Python development is on this system.

    Installing Dependencies

    Before jumping into the projects, we need to install a few required packages. Start by updating your system:

    'sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade -y'

    Next, install the Python libraries and camera support:

    'sudo apt install python3-gpiozero python3-picamera2 -y'

    And finally, install FFmpeg for handling video processing:

    'sudo apt install ffmpeg -y'

    These dependencies will allow us to control GPIO pins, interface with the camera, and handle video recording.

    Project Setup: Motion Sensor and LED

    For the first project, we’ll connect a PIR motion sensor and an LED using a breadboard. Since the Pi Zero 2 WH already has GPIO headers, we can use jumper wires to connect everything directly.

    The motion sensor we’re using is the HC-SR501 PIR sensor. PIR stands for Passive Infrared, meaning it detects motion by sensing changes in heat—like when you move your hand in front of it. The sensor has three pins: VCC (power), GND (ground), and OUT (signal). The OUT pin connects to a GPIO input on the Pi, such as GPIO 17, while VCC connects to 5V and GND connects to any ground pin.

    On the breadboard, the LED is connected with a resistor for protection. The longer leg (anode) connects to GPIO 27, while the shorter leg (cathode) connects to ground. When motion is detected, the LED will turn on, and after a short delay, it will turn back off.

    Using Thonny for Python Development

    For all of these projects, we’re using Thonny, which comes pre-installed with Raspberry Pi OS. Thonny is a simple and beginner-friendly Python IDE that makes it easy to write, test, and run scripts directly on the Pi.

    You can open Thonny from the desktop or by running Thonny.

    We’re organizing our scripts into their own directory, and it’s important to make sure the folder has the correct permissions before running them. This helps avoid issues when accessing files or saving images and videos.

    For the full scripts used in this guide—including LED control, motion detection, and camera automation—be sure to check out my Patreon, where I’ve provided complete working examples.

    Adding a Camera for Motion Detection

    In the second project, we expand on the setup by adding a camera module that captures an image whenever motion is detected. We’re using an Arducam V2 8MP camera, which includes a ribbon cable specifically designed for the Pi Zero 2.

    To install it, power off the Pi, gently lift the CSI connector latch, insert the ribbon cable with the contacts facing the board, and secure it by pressing the latch back down. Once powered back on, the camera is ready to use with the Picamera2 library.

    If you encounter a “GPIO busy” error while running scripts, it usually means another process is already using the pins. You can stop it with:

    'sudo systemctl stop pir.service'

    Mounting a NAS for Video Storage

    For the final project, we take things a step further by recording video when motion is detected and saving it to a NAS. This is a great way to avoid filling up the Pi’s SD card.

    First, create a directory for the mount point if needed, then mount your NAS share using:

    'sudo mount -t cifs //NAS-IP/Pizero2 /home/username/shared -o username=NASUSERNAME,password="NASPASSWORD",uid=$(id -u),gid=$(id -g),file_mode=0666,dir_mode=0777'

    If your password contains special characters, make sure to wrap it in quotes. This command mounts the share temporarily for the session, which is perfect for testing.

    Once mounted, your Python script can save video files directly to the NAS location.

    Bringing It All Together

    By starting with a simple motion sensor and LED, then adding a camera and network storage, we’ve built a basic but functional surveillance system using the Raspberry Pi Zero 2. While it’s not meant to replace a dedicated solution like MotionEye, it’s a great demonstration of how powerful this small board can be when combined with Python and a few components.

    For a device with only 512MB of RAM, the Pi Zero 2 handles these projects surprisingly well and proves to be a capable option for lightweight automation tasks!

    Final Thoughts

    This project is a great introduction to working with GPIO, sensors, cameras, and network storage on the Raspberry Pi. If you want the full scripts and a deeper walkthrough of each project, make sure to check out my Patreon, where everything is available in the fre membership tier.

    Thanks for reading, and stay tuned for more Raspberry Pi and homelab content here on Mackey Tech!

  • What’s in my new Homelab for 2026?

    My first homelab video goes all the way back to 2024, and since then, quite a bit has evolved. I’ve added a second Proxmox node, upgraded my network to 10 gig, and brought in a new NAS that’s become central to my workflow. Everything in this setup was purchased with my own money, with the exception of the ZimaBoard 2, which was sent over for review. If you’re into homelab tech, self-hosting, and NAS content, this is exactly the kind of setup I’ll continue building on.

    The Original Proxmox Server: From Workhorse to Test Bench

    At the core of my homelab is still my original Proxmox server, a Supermicro build I put together in 2022. It’s powered by a first-generation EPYC 3251 SoC with 8 cores and 16 threads, paired with 64GB of ECC RAM. It also includes four Ethernet ports and a dedicated IPMI interface, which has been invaluable for remote troubleshooting and management.

    Originally, this system handled all of my virtual machines and containers, but as the lab has grown, its role has shifted. These days, it serves more as a testing environment where I can spin up new VMs and LXCs, experiment with configurations, and build out tutorials without affecting anything critical.

    Over the past year, I’ve added a Home Assistant VM along with a USB Zigbee coordinator passed through to it. That setup lets me control seven studio lights, all connected via smart plugs, from a single remote instead of manually toggling each one. I also deployed CasaOS in an LXC and added Uptime Kuma to monitor both experimental and always-on services. More recently, I used another LXC to build out my WordPress site before pushing it live. Going forward, I plan to migrate key always-on services like Home Assistant and monitoring over to my newer node.

    Storage and Networking: Synology to UGREEN and the Move to 10GbE

    My Synology DS920+ was my primary NAS for years, but it has since been repositioned as a backup target. It now primarily backs up my newer UGREEN NAS, which has taken over as the main storage platform in my setup.

    Switching from Synology to UGREEN wasn’t a decision I made lightly. I’ve relied on Synology for a long time, but ultimately, UGREEN offered significantly better hardware specs at a more competitive price point. I have an entire video detailing my decision making process! I went with the DXP 6800 Pro, loaded it with four 8TB drives in a RAID 5 configuration, and added a 1TB NVMe drive for caching.

    With 8GB of RAM and dual 10 gig Ethernet ports, this unit has been a major upgrade. It currently handles media streaming through Jellyfin and runs Joplin in Docker, which I moved to as a self-hosted alternative to subscription-based note-taking platforms like Evernote. It’s also become my central archive for YouTube footage, and more recently, I’ve started editing videos directly off the NAS thanks to the increased network speed. In addition, it serves as a backup target for my Proxmox snapshots.

    That shift toward editing over the network is what drove my move to 10Gb. I picked up a 10 gig managed switch from QNAP with at least eight 10Gb ports. While I would’ve preferred to stay within the UniFi ecosystem, most of their offerings included PoE, which I didn’t need, and the RGB port design didn’t really appeal to me. The QNAP switch also supports multi-gig speeds—2.5, 5, and 10Gb—which adds a lot of flexibility.

    The rest of my network is built around a UniFi UDM Pro and a 16-port PoE switch powering five G4 cameras and two access points, including a WiFi 7 unit I added last year.

    The ZimaBoard 2: Expanding Into a Proxmox Cluster

    The newest addition to the lab is the ZimaBoard 2, which I’m using as a second Proxmox node. With that in place, I now have a small cluster, which means I can manage both systems from a single interface and start thinking more in terms of workload distribution rather than just capacity.

    The ZimaBoard comes with 16GB of RAM and 64GB of onboard eMMC, but instead of relying on the internal storage, I’m running Proxmox from a 256GB NVMe drive connected via PCIe. I’ve also attached two SATA SSDs for ISO storage and for running VMs and containers. Given the more limited RAM compared to my main node, I’ll likely favor LXCs here to keep things efficient.

    One of the first services I deployed on the ZimaBoard is Paperless, a document management system that makes it easy to tag, search, and organize files without relying on traditional folder structures. It also has a mobile app, which makes scanning and uploading documents straightforward.

    I’m also running an Ubuntu VM with a LAMP stack—Apache, MySQL, and phpMyAdmin—to track my eBay sales. It currently uses about 4GB of RAM, but I’m considering moving it into an LXC to reduce overhead. Containers are more lightweight and don’t necessarily consume all allocated memory, allowing unused resources to be shared back with the host.

    To compensate for the lack of built-in IPMI on the ZimaBoard, I added a JetKVM. It’s essentially an IP KVM with a web interface, giving me low-level access to the system even if the OS becomes unresponsive, which is a huge convenience for remote troubleshooting.

    Repurposed Hardware and Daily Drivers

    I also picked up a small firewall mini PC that I originally intended to run OPNsense on. After running into compatibility issues with UniFi Protect, I ended up repurposing it as an unmanaged switch in my office. It now doubles as a Fedora machine that I use fairly regularly, which ended up being a much more practical use for it in my setup.

    Looking Ahead: Automating the Workflow

    Looking forward, one of the next things I want to add is n8n to my Proxmox stack. The goal is to automate parts of my content workflow—things like publishing to social media and updating my website—so I’m not handling everything manually. It’s a natural next step as the lab becomes more integrated into my day-to-day work.

    Final Thoughts

    That’s where the homelab stands in 2026. It’s not over-the-top, but it’s a solid, practical setup that supports both my content creation and my interest in self-hosting. If you’re just getting started with homelabs, I’ve also put together a guide covering what to think about when building your first setup.

    If you found this helpful, consider subscribing and following along. And if you’re running your own homelab, I’d love to hear what you’re using and what you’re building.

  • Which One of These Gadgets Do You Use?

    How I Actually Use My Tech Tools in My Homelab, Test Bench, and Studio

    In a previous video, I shared a list of tech tools I recommend—but that’s only part of the story. What really matters is how those tools are used in a real-world setup. It’s one thing to show a product; it’s another to demonstrate how it actually solves problems day to day.

    In this guide, I’m going to walk you through how these tools fit into my workflow across three main areas: my test bench, my homelab, and my studio. These aren’t just random gadgets—they’re tools I rely on regularly to make things more efficient, organized, and reliable.

    Everything featured here was purchased with my own money, with the exception of a portable monitor that was sent out for review. The goal here isn’t to sell you anything—it’s to show you practical use cases so you can decide what might actually improve your own setup.

    Why Setup Matters More Than the Tools Themselves

    Before jumping into specific tools, it’s worth calling out something important: tools are only as valuable as how they’re used.

    A lot of people fall into the trap of buying gear without a clear purpose. In reality, the best setups aren’t necessarily the most expensive—they’re the ones that reduce friction. That means:

    • Less time swapping cables
    • Less clutter
    • Faster workflows
    • More reliability

    Each tool I use is there because it removes a bottleneck or simplifies something that would otherwise slow me down.

    Test Bench: Efficient Hardware Testing Without the Chaos

    When you’re regularly testing different systems—whether it’s single-board computers, mini PCs, or full servers—things can get messy quickly. Constantly swapping cables, keyboards, and monitors is not only inefficient, it’s frustrating.

    KVM Switch: One Control Point for Multiple Systems

    One of the first tools I rely on at my test bench is a KVM switch (Keyboard, Video, Mouse).

    Instead of dedicating separate peripherals to every system I test, the KVM lets me control multiple machines using a single keyboard, monitor, and mouse. Everything plugs into the switch, and I can toggle between systems with the press of a button.

    For example, if I’m working with something like a Raspberry Pi alongside another system, I don’t need to unplug anything or switch monitor inputs. I just hit a button and instantly move between them.

    This does a few key things:

    • * Keeps the desk clean and organized
    • * Eliminates constant cable swapping
    • * Reduces the need for duplicate accessories

    Some KVM switches also include additional USB ports, which means you can share devices like external drives, webcams, or speakers across multiple systems.

    USB Hub: Expanding Limited Ports

    Another essential tool on my test bench is a USB hub, especially because one of my main editing systems is a Mac. Like many modern laptops, it’s limited in terms of ports.

    When I’m testing hardware or capturing footage, I often need to connect multiple devices at once—things like a capture card, external storage, or input devices. Instead of constantly unplugging and replugging cables, the USB hub acts as a central connection point.

    For example, I use it to connect an AverMedia capture card so I can record footage from test systems without disrupting my workflow. It’s a simple tool, but it removes a lot of friction when working across multiple devices.

    Storage and Speed: Why NVMe Matters

    Once everything is connected and running, performance becomes the next bottleneck—and that’s where NVMe storage comes in.

    NVMe Drives: The “Race Cars” of Storage

    NVMe drives are significantly faster than traditional SATA SSDs or hard drives. In my setup, I use NVMe storage in a few different ways.

    In my NAS, NVMe drives act as a high-speed layer for frequently accessed data. You can think of it like keeping your most-used files on the fastest possible storage. This makes a noticeable difference when:

    • * Transferring large files
    • * Scrubbing through video footage
    • * Accessing commonly used data

    Everything just feels more responsive.

    I’ve also used NVMe drives in external enclosures for more specialized tasks. For example, when working with boards that require USB boot—like certain compute modules—I can load operating system images directly from an NVMe enclosure. This speeds up setup and makes the process more flexible compared to traditional methods.

    Power Management: Cleaning Up the Workspace

    Power is one of those things you don’t think about—until it becomes a problem. Between test equipment, studio gear, and computers, cable clutter can get out of control fast.

    Power Station: Centralized Power, Less Clutter

    To simplify things, I use a power station across both my test bench and studio.

    Instead of running multiple power bricks and extension cables, I can plug everything into a single centralized unit. This helps in a few ways:

    • * Reduces cable clutter
    • * Makes it easier to manage power connections
    • * Keeps everything accessible in one place

    It might not be the most exciting piece of gear, but it has a big impact on how clean and functional the workspace feels.

    Homelab: Reliability and Protection

    In a homelab environment—especially one running servers and network equipment—reliability is critical.

    UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply): Protecting Your Data

    One thing I don’t compromise on is backup power.

    Sudden power loss can be more than just an inconvenience. For systems running spinning drives, it can lead to data corruption or even hardware damage.

    To prevent that, I use two separate UPS units:

    • * One dedicated to servers and NAS
    • * One dedicated to networking equipment

    Each UPS provides battery backup during a power outage, giving me enough time to safely shut everything down. This controlled shutdown is key to protecting both data and hardware.

    It’s one of those investments that you hopefully never “need”—but when you do, it can save you from major headaches.

    Studio: Smart Control and Automation

    The studio environment is where things shift from raw functionality to workflow optimization and control.

    Smart Devices and Zigbee: Local, Reliable Automation

    Lighting is a big part of any studio setup, and instead of relying on manual switches or cloud-based systems, I use smart devices powered by Zigbee.

    Zigbee is designed specifically for smart home devices, which makes it more reliable and responsive than typical Wi-Fi-based solutions.

    In my setup, I control six different lights using a Zigbee network and a remote. This allows me to create scenes—like turning everything off downstairs while activating specific lighting upstairs.

    What really makes this powerful is that I’m using Home Assistant instead of relying on something like Alexa. This gives me:

    • * Full control over automations
    • * Local operation (no cloud dependency)
    • * Custom configurations tailored to my workflow

    Everything runs locally, which means it’s faster, more private, and not dependent on an internet connection.

    A Tool That Works Everywhere: Portable Monitor

    Some tools are specialized—but others end up being useful everywhere. For me, that’s the portable monitor.

    Portable Monitor: Flexible Display Anywhere

    This has turned out to be one of the most versatile tools in my setup.

    On the test bench, it acts as a secondary display when working with multiple systems. In the studio, it becomes a field monitor for my camera—especially useful for overhead shots and B-roll where the built-in camera screen isn’t enough.

    Even in my homelab, it’s been useful for troubleshooting servers. Because it’s lightweight and uses a full-size HDMI connection, I can quickly hook it up to different systems without needing a permanent monitor setup.

    It also mounts to a tripod, which helps save space while keeping it flexible and portable.

    Bringing It All Together

    At the end of the day, my setup isn’t about having the most advanced or expensive gear—it’s about reducing friction.

    Each tool serves a purpose:

    • * The KVM switch eliminates constant cable swapping
    • * The USB hub expands connectivity
    • * NVMe drives improve speed and responsiveness
    • * The power station keeps everything organized
    • * The UPS protects critical systems
    • * Smart devices streamline control and automation
    • * The portable monitor adds flexibility across environments

    Individually, these might seem like small upgrades—but together, they create a setup that’s much smoother and easier to work with.

    Final Thoughts

    This is what my setup actually looks like day to day. Nothing over the top—just practical tools that make everything run more efficiently.

    If you’re building out your own homelab, test bench, or studio, the key takeaway is this: focus on solving problems, not just adding gear.

    Think about what slows you down, what creates clutter, and what could be simplified. Then choose tools that directly address those issues.

    What About Your Setup?

    I’d be interested to hear what tools you rely on in your own setup.

    What devices have made the biggest difference for you? What problems have you solved with them?

    If you found this guide helpful, I have a follow up video where I go into more detail about how I actually many of these products in my own homelab!

    And as always—thanks for reading.

  • Here are 10 Tech Tools You’re Not Using Yet!

    There’s no shortage of “top tech gadgets” lists out there—but most of them don’t really explain how those tools fit into a real workflow. They tend to focus on features instead of real-world use, which makes it hard to know what’s actually worth your time or money.

    So instead of just listing products, this guide walks through a set of tools I personally use and explains why they matter, what problems they solve, and where they actually make a difference in day-to-day use.

    Some of these you’ll recognize. Others might be new. And a few are probably things you already own—but aren’t using to their full potential.

    Everything here was purchased with my own money. No sponsorships—just tools that have proven themselves useful over time.

    UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply): Protecting What Matters Most

    One of the most underrated pieces of tech in my entire setup is a UPS, or uninterruptible power supply. If you’re running a homelab, a NAS, or even just working from home, this is one of those tools that quietly protects everything behind the scenes.

    A UPS is constantly doing two jobs at once. First, it protects your devices from power spikes and fluctuations. Second, it provides battery backup if the power goes out. Instead of everything shutting off instantly, it switches to battery and gives you a warning—usually a beep—so you have time to safely shut things down.

    This matters more than people realize. Sudden power loss can corrupt data, damage drives (especially spinning disks), and interrupt critical processes. Even a few minutes of backup power can be the difference between a safe shutdown and a major headache.

    Precision Screwdriver Kit: Small Tool, Big Difference

    If you’ve ever worked on tech hardware, you’ve probably had the experience of digging through drawers trying to find the right screwdriver. That’s exactly the problem a precision kit solves.

    Instead of juggling multiple tools, everything is organized in one place with a wide variety of bits, including Torx screws that are common in modern devices and far less likely to strip. The added convenience of a rechargeable handle and built-in lighting makes working in tight or poorly lit spaces much easier.

    It might seem like a small upgrade, but when you’re working on mini PCs, laptops, NAS devices, or general electronics, it speeds things up and removes a lot of frustration.

    NVMe Drive + Enclosure: Turning Old Hardware Into Speed

    If you’ve upgraded a computer recently, there’s a good chance you have an NVMe drive sitting around unused. With a simple enclosure, that drive can be turned into a high-speed external storage device.

    This setup is incredibly useful for transferring large files, creating backups, or even editing directly from external storage. Compared to traditional external drives or USB flash drives, NVMe storage is significantly faster and more responsive.

    While it’s not the cheapest option, it’s one of the most effective ways to add performance to your workflow without buying entirely new hardware.

    Password Manager: Security Without the Hassle

    Most people don’t handle passwords well. Whether it’s reusing the same password, writing them down, or simply forgetting them, it creates unnecessary risk.

    A password manager solves this by generating strong, unique passwords and storing them securely. It also simplifies the login process by autofilling credentials when needed. Beyond passwords, it can store sensitive information like Wi-Fi credentials, account details, and secure notes.

    It’s not flashy, but it’s one of the most practical and impactful upgrades you can make for your digital security.

    KVM Switch: One Desk, Multiple Systems

    If you regularly use more than one computer, a KVM switch can completely change your workflow. It allows multiple systems to share a single keyboard, mouse, and monitor.

    Instead of unplugging cables or switching inputs manually, you can move between systems instantly with the press of a button. It’s similar to switching inputs on a TV—but applied to your entire workstation.

    For anyone working across multiple machines, whether for testing, development, or general productivity, it reduces friction and keeps your workspace clean and efficient.

    USB-C Hub: Restoring Missing Connectivity

    Modern laptops, especially thinner models, often come with limited ports. While that helps with design and portability, it can make everyday tasks more difficult.

    A USB-C hub restores that lost functionality by adding HDMI for external displays, multiple USB ports, SD card readers, and even Ethernet for a more stable connection. Instead of carrying several adapters, everything is consolidated into one device.

    For anyone working with external drives, capture devices, or multiple peripherals, this is an essential tool that makes a laptop far more capable.

    Portable Label Printer: Organization That Pays Off

    Organization might not be the most exciting topic, but it has a huge impact on how efficient your setup is.

    A portable label printer allows you to clearly label cables, storage bins, drawers, and equipment. Because it connects via Bluetooth and is controlled through a phone app, it’s quick and easy to use whenever you need it.

    Over time, this makes troubleshooting easier, reduces confusion, and keeps your setup looking clean and intentional. It’s a small tool that delivers long-term benefits.

    Cloud Storage and Productivity Tools: Access Anywhere

    Not every useful tool is physical. Cloud platforms like Google Drive and Docs provide a simple but powerful way to store, organize, and access your data.

    With a free account, you get a generous amount of storage along with access to document, spreadsheet, and presentation tools. Everything stays synced across devices, and sharing is straightforward.

    Whether you’re managing personal files, collaborating on projects, or storing important records, having access to everything from anywhere adds flexibility and convenience to your workflow.

    Smart Plugs: Simple Automation With Real Impact

    Most people understand the basic function of a smart plug, but they often don’t take advantage of what it can really do.

    Beyond turning devices on and off remotely, smart plugs allow you to create schedules and automate routines. Lights can turn on when you get home, devices can shut off automatically at night, and multiple actions can be triggered with a single command.

    It’s an easy entry point into home automation, but it can scale into something much more powerful as you build out your setup.

    Desk Power Station: A Cleaner, More Functional Workspace

    Cable clutter is one of the most common problems in any workspace. A desk-mounted power station helps solve this by bringing power directly to your desk instead of hiding it underneath.

    With multiple outlets and USB ports built in, everything becomes easier to access, and you don’t have to crawl under your desk to plug things in. The result is a cleaner, more organized workspace that’s easier to use every day.

    It’s not the most exciting upgrade—but it’s one you’ll notice immediately.

    What These Tools Have in Common

    At first glance, this might seem like a random collection of tools. But there’s a clear pattern.

    Each one solves a specific problem—whether that’s protecting your equipment, improving speed, simplifying workflows, or reducing clutter. None of these are about being flashy. They’re about making your setup more efficient, reliable, and easier to use.

    Final Thoughts

    The best tech setups aren’t built on hype—they’re built on practicality.

    If a tool saves time, reduces frustration, or improves reliability, it’s worth considering. You don’t need everything on this list, but chances are there’s at least one or two tools here that could noticeably improve your workflow.

    What Would You Add?

    What’s one piece of tech that has made a real difference in your setup?

    It doesn’t have to be expensive or complex—just something that actually solved a problem. That’s usually where the best tools come from.

  • How To Choose The Right NAS in 2026!

    The number of NAS options available today has gotten a little out of hand. You’ve got brands like Synology, QNAP, TerraMaster, Asustor, Buffalo, and now even newer players like UGREEN, MinisForum, and UniFi. And that’s just the turnkey side. Once you step into the DIY world with platforms like TrueNAS, Unraid, and OpenMediaVault, the number of possibilities expands even further.

    While all of this competition is great for consumers, it also makes choosing the right NAS more confusing than it needs to be.

    Instead of comparing endless spec sheets or trying to memorize model numbers, the goal of this guide is simple: help you choose a NAS based on how you actually plan to use it. For me, I come from being a loyal Synology customer for 15+ years and it was time to upgrade from my DS920+ ! However, instead of getting a new Synology, I decided to go with a UGREEN NAS for a number of reasons, which I discuss in detail in this video. Long story short, in my opinion, Synology wasn’t worth the money anymore!

    Turnkey vs DIY: The First Decision You Need to Make

    When it comes to choosing a NAS, everything really starts with one decision—are you going turnkey, or are you building your own?

    Turnkey NAS systems from companies like Synology and QNAP are best thought of as appliances. The hardware and software are designed to work together out of the box, the interface is polished, and most platforms offer app stores where you can install features with just a few clicks. This makes them very approachable, especially if you just want something that works without much effort.

    The tradeoff is flexibility. You’ll usually pay more for that convenience, and you’ll have fewer options when it comes to upgrading hardware or customizing the system.

    On the other hand, building your own NAS puts you in full control. You choose the hardware, the operating system, and how everything is configured. Platforms like TrueNAS and OpenMediaVault are free and open source, while Unraid offers a paid option with a more streamlined experience.

    The benefit here isn’t just cost—it’s flexibility. But that flexibility comes with responsibility. If something breaks, you’re relying on documentation, forums, and your own troubleshooting skills to fix it.

    For some people, that’s part of the appeal. For others, it’s a dealbreaker. If you enjoy tinkering and learning how systems work, DIY can be incredibly rewarding. If you just want something reliable and easy to manage, a turnkey system is usually the better choice.

    Simple Storage and Backups: When You Don’t Need Anything Fancy

    If your needs are straightforward—things like file storage, backups, and archiving—then you don’t need to overthink your NAS choice.

    In this case, simplicity becomes more important than performance. Systems like UniFi’s NAS lineup are designed with this in mind. They focus on clean, reliable storage without trying to do everything at once, which makes them especially appealing if you’re already using other UniFi gear.

    At this level, you’re not worrying about advanced features like virtual machines or media transcoding. You just want something that stores your data safely and is easy to access.

    Media Streaming: Where Hardware Starts to Matter

    As soon as you move into media streaming, your NAS choice becomes more important.

    One of the first questions to ask is whether your devices can play media files directly. Most modern devices like smart TVs, Apple TV, Roku, and Fire TV can handle direct playback without needing extra processing from the NAS.

    But once you introduce smartphones, tablets, or remote streaming, things change. This is where transcoding comes into play, which requires your NAS to convert media files into formats that different devices can handle.

    Transcoding is what puts real pressure on your hardware, especially your CPU. Features like Intel Quick Sync can make a significant difference here by handling video processing more efficiently.

    It’s also important to understand that it’s not just the number of streams that matters—it’s whether those streams require transcoding. However, the more users and devices you have, the more likely it is that your NAS will need to handle multiple tasks at once.

    Some systems are better suited for this than others. Certain Synology models focus more on efficiency and software experience, while brands like UGREEN and QNAP often include Intel-based CPUs that are better equipped for media workloads. TerraMaster models can also perform well, but it depends on whether you choose an Intel-based system or an ARM-based one.

    Surveillance: Choosing the Right Ecosystem

    If you’re planning to use your NAS for surveillance, the software ecosystem becomes just as important as the hardware.

    Synology is often considered a strong option in this category due to its Surveillance Station platform, which is designed specifically for managing cameras and recordings. It also integrates with its own line of cameras, creating a more unified experience.

    Other brands like QNAP, Asustor, and TerraMaster also offer surveillance features, but they tend to focus more on compatibility with third-party cameras.

    UniFi takes a slightly different approach. Its surveillance system is highly regarded, but it operates separately from its NAS products. That means you won’t be using a UniFi NAS to record camera footage in the same way you would with other systems.

    Virtual Machines and Containers: Understanding Resource Needs

    Running virtual machines and containers is where your hardware requirements really start to increase.

    Virtual machines reserve dedicated resources. For example, if you assign 4GB of RAM to a VM, that memory is set aside whether it’s being used or not. Containers, on the other hand, are much more efficient. They share system resources and only use what they need at any given time.

    CPU resources are shared in both cases, but as you add more workloads—whether that’s apps, containers, or virtual machines—everything starts to compete for those resources.

    If you’re planning to go beyond basic usage, starting with at least 8GB of RAM and a multi-core CPU is a good baseline. While CPUs in turnkey NAS systems usually aren’t upgradeable, RAM often is, though some brands restrict support to their own modules.

    How the Number of Users Affects Performance

    The number of users accessing your NAS also plays a major role in determining what kind of system you need.

    A couple of users performing light tasks like file storage and backups won’t require much power. But as you add more users—especially if they’re streaming media, uploading files, or running applications at the same time—the demand increases quickly.

    It’s not just about how many users you have, but what they’re doing and whether those activities overlap. Multiple simultaneous tasks can put significant strain on both your CPU and memory.

    Software Experience vs Hardware Power

    One of the biggest differences between NAS brands comes down to software versus hardware priorities.

    Synology is known for its polished software, intuitive interface, and strong ecosystem of apps. QNAP leans more toward performance and flexibility, often offering better hardware and connectivity options but with a slightly steeper learning curve.

    Brands like TerraMaster and UGREEN tend to focus more on value and hardware performance, while Asustor sits somewhere in between, offering a balance of both.

    Security and ease of use often follow a similar pattern. Some systems are more locked down and easier to manage out of the box, while others offer more control at the cost of requiring more setup.

    Build Quality, Noise, and Placement

    The physical design of a NAS also matters more than you might expect.

    Some brands use more plastic, which helps reduce vibration and noise, making them better suited for living spaces or offices. Others use more metal or aluminum, which improves heat dissipation and gives a more premium feel.

    Where you place your NAS can influence what matters most. If it’s sitting near you, noise levels become more noticeable. If it’s tucked away in a closet or basement, cooling and performance may be a higher priority.

    Power consumption follows a similar logic. More drives, stronger CPUs, and heavier workloads all increase energy usage.

    Understanding Drive Bays and RAID

    Drive bays play a critical role in both your current storage capacity and your future flexibility.

    More bays mean more room to expand and more options for RAID configurations, which allow multiple drives to work together for protection, performance, or both.

    It’s important to remember that RAID is not a backup. It provides redundancy, but it doesn’t replace the need for proper backups.

    With a 2-bay system, you’re typically limited to mirroring your data, which reduces usable capacity. Moving up to 4 bays or more gives you more efficient options that balance storage and protection. Larger systems offer even more flexibility, including configurations designed for higher performance or increased fault tolerance.

    Simplifying Your Decision

    At this point, it’s clear there’s no single “best” NAS. The right choice depends entirely on what you value most.

    If you prioritize ease of use and a polished experience, certain brands focus heavily on software and simplicity. If performance is your main concern—especially for media streaming or virtual machines—then hardware becomes more important. And if budget is a factor, there are options that offer solid performance without the premium price tag.

    Ultimately, the goal isn’t to find the perfect NAS—it’s to find the one that fits your needs without overcomplicating things.

    Final Thoughts

    Choosing a NAS doesn’t have to be overwhelming. Once you break it down by how you plan to use it—whether that’s storage, media, surveillance, or virtualization—the options start to make a lot more sense.

    Instead of chasing specs or comparing every model on the market, focus on your use case. That’s what will guide you to the right decision.

    And if you’re still narrowing things down, think about what matters most to you: simplicity, performance, or value. That answer alone will eliminate most of the confusion.

  • How to Access Home Assistant With a Raspberry Pi

    Today we’re intalling Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi with Tailscale! So our goal will be to configure Tailscale to access our smart devices remotely; more importantly, we’re not going to be forwarding any ports!

    So, picture this! You’re at the airport, about to board a flight for a well-earned two-week vacation in Maui. Then it hits you—you forgot to turn off the TV.

    Now you’ve got two options. You can call someone with a key and hope they answer… or you can pull out your phone and turn it off yourself.

    That’s exactly what we’re setting up today.

    In this guide, I’ll show you how to install Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi and access it remotely using Tailscale. Once it’s up and running, you’ll be able to control your devices from anywhere—no port forwarding, no complicated networking.

    What Home Assistant Actually Does

    Home Assistant is a platform that lets you control and automate smart devices in your home.

    You can:

    1. Turn devices on or off remotely
    2. Create automations
    3. Group devices by room
    4. Build a fully customized smart home

    For example, you could have a motion sensor turn on lights automatically, or schedule your TV to power on at a specific time.

    This isn’t a deep dive. The goal here is simple: get everything installed and working so you can start controlling your home remotely.

    What You’ll Need

    For this setup, I’m using a Raspberry Pi 4B with 4GB of RAM. That’s a great starting point for Home Assistant.

    You’ll also want:

    1. A Raspberry Pi (Pi 3, 4, or 5)
    2. A 32GB Class A2 microSD card
    3. Ethernet connection (recommended for setup)
    4. Power supply for the Pi

    The A2 rating matters because it improves performance when running apps and services.

    If you’re new to the Raspberry Pi, think of it as a tiny computer about the size of a credit card. Despite its size, it’s powerful enough to run Linux, host services, and handle home automation without breaking a sweat.

    Installing Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi

    Let’s get this up and running.

    Start by using the Raspberry Pi Imager to flash the Home Assistant operating system to your microSD card. This version is designed specifically for Home Assistant, which makes installing apps and add-ons much easier later on.

    Inside the Imager:

    1. Select “Other OS”
    2. Choose “Automation”
    3. Pick the correct Home Assistant version for your Pi

    If you prefer Balena Etcher, you can flash the image manually.

    Once complete:

    1. Insert the microSD card into the Pi
    2. Connect Ethernet
    3. Plug in power

    No monitor, keyboard, or mouse needed.

    Accessing Home Assistant for the First Time

    From another device on your network, open a browser and go to:

    homeassistant.local:8123

    That’s the default hostname and port.

    If it doesn’t load:

    1. Check your router for the Pi’s IP address
    2. Use that IP instead

    Once inside:

    1. Create an admin account
    2. Set your location
    3. Log in

    Then:

    1. Check for updates under Settings → System
    2. Review hardware and network info

    Adding Your First Devices

    Home Assistant will often detect devices automatically.

    Start by organizing your setup:

    1. Create a room (for example, “TV Room”)
    2. Assign devices to that room
    3. Test basic controls like power and volume

    If your device doesn’t show up:

    1. Go to Integrations
    2. Search for the device (Roku, Fire Stick, etc.)
    3. Follow the setup

    Setting Up Remote Access with Tailscale

    Now let’s make everything accessible from anywhere.

    First:

    1. Create a free Tailscale account
    2. Install Tailscale on your phone or laptop

    Then in Home Assistant:

    1. Go to Settings
    2. Open Add-ons or Apps
    3. Search for Tailscale
    4. Install and start it

    Log into your Tailscale account and connect Home Assistant.

    Understanding What Tailscale Enables

    Tailscale creates a secure private network between your devices.

    Here are two features worth knowing:

    1. Subnet Router This lets Home Assistant act as a bridge to your entire network. You can access other devices without installing Tailscale on each one.
    2. Exit Node This routes your internet traffic through your home network. It’s useful when using public Wi-Fi.

    You don’t need to enable these right away, but they’re powerful tools as your setup grows.

    Accessing Your Home Remotely

    Now for the payoff!

    On your smart phone:

    1. Turn off Wi-Fi
    2. Open the Tailscale app
    3. Connect to your Home Assistant device

    Then:

    1. Copy the MagicDNS or IP address
    2. Open it in your browser
    3. Add :8123 at the end

    Log in and control your devices like you’re at home.

    TV still on? Fixed in seconds.

    Why This Setup Works So Well

    This setup removes a lot of common headaches.

    You don’t need:

    1. Port forwarding
    2. Static IPs
    3. Complex firewall rules

    Tailscale handles secure networking. Home Assistant handles automation.

    Together, they give you full control from anywhere.

    Final Thoughts

    This setup is simple, but it opens the door to much more.

    Once you’re up and running, you can:

    1. Add more devices
    2. Build automations
    3. Monitor your home remotely
    4. Expand into a full smart home

    And the next time you forget to turn something off, it’s no longer a problem.

    Just pull out your phone and fix it. And If you’re already using Home Assistant, I’d love to hear what you’re running. And if you’re just getting started, this is a great place to begin! 👍

  • This Tiny Computer Surprised me; In a Good Way!

    I honestly didn’t know what to expect from the ZimaBoard 2. After a week of testing, one question kept coming up: could this actually replace one of my servers? And the timing worked out pretty well for me, because I’ve been planning to add another Proxmox node to my setup. So this felt like the perfect opportunity to see if the ZimaBoard 2 could handle a few virtual machines—or maybe even serve as a dedicated Docker host using ZimaOS.

    Transparency and First Impressions

    For transparency, IceWhale sent over this review kit along with a few accessories. No money changed hands, and as always, they didn’t get to influence this content in any way.

    Right out of the box, the packaging stood out. Instead of foam or plastic inserts, IceWhale uses a layered corrugated cardboard design. With a small modification, that packaging can even be turned into a dock for the board and a couple of SSDs. It’s a small detail, but it sets the tone for a product that feels a bit different from typical hardware.

    What is the ZimaBoard 2 ?

    If you haven’t seen one before, the ZimaBoard is kind of what you’d get if you crossed a Raspberry Pi with a server. It’s the size of a deck of cards, but it’s some good heft making it feel more substantial thanks to its all-aluminum enclosure.

    It’s completely fanless out of the box, using its enclosure as a passive heatsink. In terms of connectivity, you get dual SATA connections, two 2.5Gb Ethernet ports, 2 x USB 3.0, a mini DisplayPort, and, interestingly a PCIe 3.0 slot, which opens the door for NVMe expansion or a fast ethernet card!

    The unit I tested came with 16GB of RAM and 64GB of onboard eMMC storage, though there are lower-tier options available. At first glance, it’s clear this isn’t your average single-board computer—it’s something designed to sit somewhere between a lightweight server and a full NAS.

    Where Zimaboard 2 Fits in the Zima Ecosystem

    The ZimaBoard 2 sits right in the middle of IceWhale’s lineup. On one end, you have the original ZimaBoard and the ZimaBlade, which lean more toward experimentation and maker projects. On the other end, there’s the ZimaCube, which is positioned as a more complete NAS or home server solution.

    This second-generation board builds on the original concept with faster RAM, improved networking, a newer CPU, and updated PCIe support. All of the boards ship with ZimaOS preinstalled, which makes getting started incredibly quick.

    Setting Zima 2 Up as a NAS

    Getting started was straightforward. I connected two 2TB drives using the included SATA Y-cable, mounted them into the drive bay, and powered everything on. Since the system is designed to run headless, I simply scanned my network, found the device, and jumped into the web interface.

    Within ZimaOS, both drives were automatically detected. After a few clicks, I created a RAID 1 mirror—giving me redundancy without much effort.

    The interface itself is clean and browser-based, with an app store that installs services as Docker containers. That means most applications can be deployed with a single click and remain isolated from the rest of the system.

    ZimaOS: Simple, but With a Few Quirks

    ZimaOS is essentially a customized version of CasaOS, and it does a great job of simplifying server management. You get a dashboard with widgets for storage, networking, and system stats, along with a built-in app store for deploying services.

    Under the hood, everything runs on Docker, which keeps things modular and easy to manage. There’s even a built-in system monitor for checking resource usage in real time.

    That said, a few things felt a bit hidden to me. Features like SMB, SSH, and HTTPS are tucked under “Developer Mode,” which feels like they should be more front-and-center given how commonly they’re used.

    Still, once everything is configured, it’s a very approachable environment—especially for anyone new to self-hosting.

    Real-World Performance and Power Efficiency

    After setting everything up, I installed Jellyfin for media streaming, added a Linux Mint virtual machine, and ran multiple workloads simultaneously. Even with streaming across devices and a VM running in the background, the system remained surprisingly responsive.

    Power consumption was one of the board’s biggest highlights. Under load, the system hovered around 26 to 27 watts. At idle, it dropped down to roughly 7 watts. That’s incredibly efficient, especially considering it was acting as both a NAS and a lightweight server.

    Networking performance was equally impressive. Using a 2.5Gb connection, I was able to sustain speeds around 2.3Gbps—even while streaming and running a VM.

    Thermals and Cooling

    Thermal performance was solid for a fanless system. During stress testing, temperatures settled in the mid-80s Celsius, with occasional peaks into the low 90s. That might sound high, but it’s within safe operating limits for this type of design.

    When I adding the optional fan, it brought temperatures down by about 10 degrees and helped prevent heat buildup during extended workloads. While the system runs fine without it, the fan adds a bit of extra headroom if you plan to push it harder.

    Turning The Zima Board 2 Into a Proxmox Node

    This is where things got really interesting. So, instead of replacing ZimaOS, I installed Proxmox onto an NVMe drive connected via the PCIe slot. The installation process was around seven minutes and once it was up and running, I configured additional storage and started deploying virtual machines.

    I spun up Linux Mint, Zorin OS, and Home Assistant, and even ran updates across multiple VMs simultaneously. Despite allocating a large portion of the available RAM, the system handled everything without noticeable slowdowns.

    At idle with multiple VMs running, power usage stayed in the 7 to 9 watt range, which is incredibly efficient for a virtualization host.

    Storage Performance and Limitations

    Storage performance scaled exactly as expected. The onboard eMMC is fine for the operating system but not ideal for heavy workloads. SATA SSDs provide a noticeable improvement, while NVMe delivers a massive jump in performance.

    However, there is a limitation. The PCIe slot runs at Gen 3 x1, which caps total bandwidth. That means even though you can run multiple NVMe drives, they’re sharing that single lane. You still get improved performance, but not a linear increase.

    Even with that limitation, NVMe storage still felt fast and responsive!

    So Who Is the ZimaBoard 2 For?

    The ZimaBoard 2 sits in an interesting middle ground. On one hand, ZimaOS makes it feel like a turnkey appliance. You can get up and running quickly without needing deep technical knowledge.

    On the other hand, the hardware and expandability make it feel like something much more flexible. You can run Proxmox, experiment with Docker, and build out a variety of services.

    There are a few quirks. Some features feel slightly hidden, and certain hardware configurations require more hands on. But once you get past that, the system really opens up.

    Final Thoughts

    After a week of testing, I honesly don’t see the ZimaBoard 2 replacing any of my servers.

    However, what it does incredibly well is fill the gap between a single-board computer and a traditional server. It’s efficient, versatile, and surprisingly capable for its size.

    It feels less like a fixed device and more like a platform you can grow into. Whether you’re offloading services, experimenting with VMs, or building a homelab, it just fits. Honestly, that’s what makes the Zima 2 so interesting!

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