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  • Secure Your UGREEN NAS & Access It Remotely with Tailscale

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    A NAS, gives you an incredible amount of control over your files, applications, backups, and media. But once you start thinking about accessing your NAS remotely, security becomes just as important as convenience.

    UGREEN provides its own remote-access service, UGREENlink, but you don’t necessarily have to use it. If you prefer a platform-independent solution that works across different NAS brands, servers, computers, and mobile devices, Tailscale is an excellent alternative.

    In this guide, we’ll go through several security best practices for a UGREEN NAS, including reducing unnecessary services, strengthening account security, configuring the built-in firewall, and finally using Tailscale for secure remote access.

    Reduce Your NAS Attack Surface

    One of the simplest ways to improve NAS security is to reduce the number of services that are available in the first place.

    If you’re not using UGREEN Remote Access, you can disable it. The same principle applies to other services and applications installed on your NAS. If you don’t use something, there is little reason to leave it running.

    Unused applications should also be removed, and services such as UPnP should generally remain disabled unless you specifically need them. Every unnecessary service is another potential entry point that you have to maintain and secure.

    Review UGREEN’s Built-In Security Settings

    UGOS includes several security controls that are worth reviewing even if many of them are enabled by default.

    Inside the UGREEN Control Panel, open the Security section and review the available options.

    One setting controls how long an inactive management session can remain open before you are automatically logged out. Another option can clear active user sessions whenever the NAS restarts, requiring everyone to authenticate again.

    These aren’t dramatic security features by themselves, but together they reduce the chance that an unattended or previously authenticated session remains accessible.

    Enable DoS Protection

    UGREEN also provides built-in protection against denial-of-service, or DoS, attacks.

    A DoS attack occurs when another system intentionally overwhelms a device with network traffic to the point where it slows down or becomes unavailable.

    UGOS can monitor TCP, UDP, and ICMP traffic for behavior that could indicate this type of attack. Enabling all three protections gives the NAS another layer of defense against suspicious network activity.

    Configure Automatic IP Blocking

    Another important setting controls failed login attempts.

    You can configure the NAS to automatically block an IP address after a certain number of incorrect password attempts within a specified period of time. This can help slow down automated login attempts and basic brute-force attacks.

    UGOS also provides a Block List where you can review addresses that have been blocked or manually add addresses yourself.

    There is also an optional Whitelist. This allows you to identify trusted IP addresses that should never be automatically blocked. For example, you might whitelist a trusted computer on your local network so repeated login mistakes don’t accidentally lock that system out.

    Use TLS 1.2 or Later

    UGOS also includes a TLS configuration option.

    This particular setting does not turn HTTPS on or off. Instead, it determines which versions of the TLS encryption protocol the NAS is allowed to use when an HTTPS connection is established.

    Leaving the minimum version set to TLS 1.2 or later helps prevent connections from falling back to older and less-secure encryption protocols.

    Strengthen Your UGREEN Account Security

    Your NAS security is only as strong as the accounts that can access it.

    Use a strong, unique password and enable two-factor authentication whenever possible. Two-factor authentication adds another layer of protection because gaining access requires more than simply knowing the password.

    UGOS also provides an Account Activity section where you can see which users are currently connected, how they’re connected, and information about the device or IP address being used.

    If you notice an unfamiliar connection, you can terminate that session directly from the interface.

    UGREEN also provides account-level blocking, which offers another method of limiting repeated failed login attempts against individual user accounts.

    Configure the Firewall with Default-Deny Approach

    UGREEN includes a built-in firewall that can provide another layer of protection.

    If you already use a dedicated firewall such as UniFi, pfSense, or OPNsense, that device will usually remain your primary line of defense. However, enabling the NAS firewall can still provide some additional protection directly on the device.

    When configuring firewall rules, I prefer a default-deny approach. Instead of asking which services should be blocked, ask which services actually need to be allowed.

    For example, if you use SSH, SMB, and NFS, you can create allow rules specifically for those services.

    If you don’t use services such as FTP or WebDAV, there’s usually no reason to create separate firewall rules specifically denying them. Simply leave those services disabled in UGREEN’s file-service settings.

    What About Geo-IP Blocking?

    UGREEN also provides Geo-IP filtering.

    If you’re using a typical consumer router without advanced firewall capabilities, Geo-IP filtering can provide another useful layer of protection by blocking connection attempts from countries where you don’t expect legitimate traffic to originate.

    However, Geo-IP blocking should never be treated as a replacement for strong passwords, multi-factor authentication, or secure remote-access practices.

    More advanced firewall platforms such as UniFi, pfSense, and OPNsense are generally better equipped to handle Geo-IP filtering, VLAN policies, and more complex network rules.

    UGREENlink vs. Tailscale

    UGREEN includes its own remote-access service called UGREENlink, which provides encrypted access to your NAS from outside your home network.

    There’s nothing inherently wrong with using it.

    However, some users may prefer a remote-access solution that isn’t tied to a particular NAS manufacturer. That’s where Tailscale becomes particularly useful.

    Tailscale uses WireGuard-based encrypted connections and creates a private network between your authorized devices. It gives you a consistent way to access not only your UGREEN NAS, but also other servers, computers, and services in your homelab.

    Installing Tailscale on a UGREEN NAS with Docker

    For this configuration, Tailscale runs inside a Docker container.

    First, make sure the Docker application is installed on your UGREEN NAS through the App Center.

    Next, open File Manager and locate your shared docker directory. Inside that directory, create a folder named:

    tailscale

    Inside the Tailscale folder, create another folder named:

    state

    I recommend keeping these directory names lowercase because the volume paths in the Docker Compose YAML file need to match the directory names exactly.

    Import the Tailscale YAML File

    Open the Docker application and select Project, then choose the option to create a new project.

    Use the Import option and select the Tailscale YAML file.

    Rather than manually creating each Docker container setting through the graphical interface, the YAML file defines the container configuration for you. Once imported, you can review and modify the configuration before deployment.

    To download the yaml file I’m using, please visit my patreon!

    Create Your Tailscale Account & Tailnet

    If you don’t already have one, create a free account at Tailscale.

    You should also install Tailscale on the device you’ll use when accessing the NAS remotely. This could be your laptop, desktop computer, tablet, or smartphone.

    Once a device is connected to your account, it becomes part of your tailnet.

    A tailnet is essentially the private network created between all of the devices connected to your Tailscale account.

    Generate a Tailscale Authentication Key

    To add the UGREEN NAS to your tailnet, log into the Tailscale web interface and open the Keys section under your account settings.

    Generate a new authentication key and give it a recognizable name such as:

    ugreennas

    You can also configure an expiration date for the key.

    Tailscale provides an option to make devices ephemeral, meaning they can automatically disappear from your tailnet after going offline. For a NAS that remains part of your network permanently, I generally leave that option disabled.

    Once the authentication key is generated, copy it to your clipboard.

    Add the Authentication Key to Your YAML File

    Return to the Tailscale project you imported into UGREEN Docker.

    Inside the YAML configuration, locate the Tailscale authorization environment variable and replace the generic placeholder key with the authentication key you just generated.

    You should also carefully review the volume path.

    The path on the left side of the volume mapping refers to the folders located on your UGREEN NAS. Make sure the directory names match the folders you created earlier, including capitalization.

    The path on the right side represents the corresponding location inside the Docker container and generally doesn’t need to be changed.

    Once everything looks correct, deploy the project.

    Verify Your NAS in Tailscale

    After the container starts, return to the Tailscale administration page.

    Your UGREEN NAS should now appear as another connected device on your tailnet.

    Tailscale will assign the NAS a Tailscale IP address and can also provide a MagicDNS hostname, which makes accessing devices easier because you don’t have to remember individual IP addresses.

    Access the UGREEN Web Interface Remotely

    Once both your remote device and UGREEN NAS are connected to Tailscale, you can access the UGOS management interface through your private tailnet.

    Enter the NAS’s Tailscale address or MagicDNS hostname into your browser along with the port used by the UGREEN web interface.

    You can then log into UGOS using your normal NAS username and password.

    The important difference is that you’re reaching the NAS through your private Tailscale connection rather than exposing the NAS management interface directly to the public internet.

    Access Immich Remotely Through Tailscale

    The same method works for applications running on your NAS.

    For example, if you’re hosting an Immich photo library on your UGREEN NAS, you can connect to it remotely using Tailscale. On your phone, enable Tailscale and open the Immich app. For the server address, enter the MagicDNS hostname or Tailscale address for your UGREEN NAS followed by Immich’s port: 2283

    This allows your phone to communicate directly with the Immich server through your private Tailscale network, even when you’re away from home and using cellular data or another Wi-Fi network.

    If you want to see my blog post about configuring immich on the UGREEN NAS, click here!

    Security Is About Layers

    There isn’t one setting that suddenly makes a NAS secure.

    Good security comes from combining multiple layers.

    Disable services you don’t need. Keep UGOS, applications, and Docker containers updated. Use strong passwords and multi-factor authentication. Enable automatic blocking and firewall protections where appropriate. Avoid exposing NAS management ports directly to the internet.

    And when you need remote access, a private networking solution such as Tailscale can provide a much safer and more flexible alternative to simply forwarding ports through your router.

    The goal isn’t to make your NAS impossible to reach. It’s to make sure that only the people and devices you trust have a path to it!

    Please be sure to sign up for a free patreon membership and join my ‘Tech Fans’ community for the full tutorial for configuring Tailscale on UGREEN NAS

    💻 Hardware I Used: ✅ Some links may be affiliate links, which help support me and help keep ads off here!

    1. UGREEN DXP6800 Pro NAS: https://amzn.to/4tKmKoF
    2. 4x 8TB Ironwolf HDD Used in 6800 Pro: https://amzn.to/4diniNt
    3. 256 Kingspec NVMe Drive: https://amzn.to/4ukfJvG

  • Goodbye, Google Photos, Hello iMMICH!

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    How to Install Immich on a UGREEN NAS

    Google Photos is convenient, but its free 15 GB of storage can disappear quickly once you start uploading a large photo library or high-quality video. Immich provides an open-source alternative that lets you store and manage your collection on hardware you control. In this guide, we’ll install Immich on a UGREEN NAS using the built-in Docker application and its Projects feature.

    This walk through uses a UGREEN DXP6800 Pro, but the standard Immich configuration is designed to work across Intel-, AMD, and ARM-based UGREEN NAS devices. The result is a dedicated photo application with automatic mobile backups, albums, facial recognition, Smart Search, location-based browsing, and other familiar photo-management features.

    Why Use immich?

    UGREEN includes its own photo application, but Immich offers a dedicated web and mobile experience that opens directly to your library. Your original photos and videos remain on your NAS, and core features such as facial recognition, object detection, metadata indexing, and AI-powered searches can run locally instead of requiring your entire collection to be processed by a cloud photo service.

    Immich can still connect to outside services for maps, software updates, and optional integrations, but your core library and machine-learning processing remain under your control. That makes it a compelling option for anyone who wants the convenience of a modern photo platform without relying entirely on third-party storage.

    Install the UGREEN Docker App

    Begin by opening the UGREEN App Center and installing Docker. Immich uses several containers that work together, including the main Immich server, a PostgreSQL database, valley, and the machine-learning service. Docker Projects lets us deploy and manage those components together as one application stack.

    Create the immich Folder Structure

    Open File Manager, navigate to the Docker shared folder, and create a folder named immich. Inside it, create three additional folders named library, postgres, and model-cache. The library folder stores uploaded photos, videos, and generated media; postgres holds the database that tracks users, albums, dates, locations, permissions, and other library information; and model-cache stores the downloaded models used by Immich’s machine-learning features.

    Create the Docker Project

    Open Docker, select Project, and choose ‘Create’. Give the project a clear name such as Immich, then select the Docker/immich folder you created earlier as its location. The Compose configuration screen is where you will import the YAML file that defines the complete Immich stack.

    Import the immich Yaml

    Rather than copying YAML from a web page or PDF, use the exact immich.yaml file provided with the companion guide. Downloading and importing the file preserves its indentation and avoids subtle formatting errors that can prevent Docker Compose from working.

    Download the exact immich.yaml file and supporting details from the free Mackey Tech Patreon post.

    Review Yaml

    The standard machine-learning image in this guide works across Intel-, AMD, and ARM-based UGREEN systems. Immich also offers OpenVINO acceleration for compatible Intel hardware, which can speed up AI tasks such as facial recognition and Smart Search. The largest difference is usually noticeable while Immich processes the existing library for the first time; afterward, it generally processes only newly added photos and videos.

    The YAML also includes a database password in two locations: one for the Immich server and another for PostgreSQL. Replace the placeholder with your own strong password and make sure both entries match exactly. This is an internal database connection password rather than the password you will use to sign into Immich, but it should still be stored safely in a password manager.

    Immich uses port 2283 by default. Once you have reviewed the configuration, import immich.yaml and select Deploy. Docker will download the required images and start the services, which can take several minutes on the first run.

    Open immich & Create Admin Account

    When deployment finishes, open a browser and enter your NAS IP address followed by port 2283, such as http://192.168.1.100:2283. The first account created becomes the Immich administrator, so enter your name, email address, and a strong password you can keep secure.

    After signing in, select your profile icon and open Administration. This area lets you add users, review storage information, monitor background jobs, and adjust machine-learning settings. You may not need to change anything immediately, but it is useful to know where these controls live before uploading a large library.

    Connect immich mobile app

    Install the official Immich mobile app from the Apple App Store or Google Play Store. When prompted for the server address, enter the local address of your NAS followed by port 2283, then sign in using the account you created. This local address normally works only while the phone is connected to your home network.

    Choose Photos to Back up

    Allow Immich to access the photos and videos on your phone. On an iPhone, choose access to all photos if you want the app to back up your complete library. Select the cloud icon in the upper-right corner, choose the phone albums you want to include, and enable backup. Immich will begin uploading the selected photos and videos directly to your NAS.

    Return to the Immich web interface and confirm that the selected albums and media are appearing in the library. You can also open the Docker/immich/library folder on the NAS to verify that Immich is writing files to the assigned storage location.

    Manage photos through the Immich application instead of moving, renaming, or reorganizing files directly inside the NAS folders. Immich relies on its database to connect the original files with albums, thumbnails, users, dates, locations, and other information. Manual changes inside the storage folders can cause the database and files to fall out of sync.

    Accessing immich Remotely

    The local NAS address used in this guide is intended for devices connected to your home network. For remote access, Tailscale provides a secure way to connect to Immich without opening ports on your router or exposing the application directly to the internet. Remote access deserves its own walk through, so it is best configured after confirming that Immich works correctly on the local network.

    Final Thoughts

    At this point, Immich is running on the UGREEN NAS, the mobile app is connected, and selected photos and videos are backing up to storage you control. This guide focuses on getting the platform installed and working, but Immich also includes shared albums, facial recognition, OCR text recognition, Smart Search, location-based browsing, and many other features worth exploring.

    If you’re looking for a guide for running Jellyfin on Ugreen, check out my post here!

    For the downloadable immich YAML file and more detailed setup notes, visit the Mackey Tech Patreon guide.

    💻 Hardware Used:

    ✅ Some links may be affiliate links, which help support me and help keep ads off here!

    1. UGREEN DXP6800 Pro NAS: https://amzn.to/4tKmKoF
    2. 4x 8TB Ironwolf HDD Used in 6800 Pro: https://amzn.to/4diniNt
    3. 256 Kingspec NVMe Drive: https://amzn.to/4ukfJvG

  • How to Install Jellyfin on a UGREEN NAS

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    Jellyfin is a free, open-source media server that lets you organize and stream your own movies, television

    shows, music, and home videos. Unlike some competing platforms, Jellyfin does not require a paid

    subscription to unlock hardware-accelerated transcoding.

    In this guide, we will install Jellyfin through the Project section of UGREEN’s Docker app. The overall

    process is similar on other UGREEN NAS models that support Docker, although hardware-acceleration

    options can vary by processor.

    Two Ways to Install Jellyfin on UGREEN

    UGREEN offers two practical installation routes:

    • App Center: The fastest and simplest option. UGREEN handles most of the container setup for you.

    • Docker Project: A more flexible deployment that lets you edit the Compose YAML, choose ports and

    storage paths, pass hardware devices into the container, and redeploy after making changes.

    The App Center version may be sufficient for many users. However, this guide uses a Docker Project because it

    provides more control and makes future changes easier.

    Before You Begin

    Before installing Jellyfin, make sure the NAS has been initialized and its storage is ready. You will need:

    • A compatible UGREEN NAS running UGOS Pro

    • At least one configured storage pool and volume

    • The UGREEN Docker app, installed from the App Center

    • Administrator access to the NAS

    • Folders containing your movies, television shows, or other media

    It is a good idea to decide where your media will live before creating the project. You can change the paths

    later, but planning your folder structure first makes the setup cleaner.

    Create the Jellyfin Docker Project

    Open the Docker app in UGOS Pro, select Project, create a new project, and give it a recognizable name

    such as jellyfin. Paste the following Compose configuration into the project editor, replacing the media pathswith the actual locations on your NAS.

    Example Docker Compose YAML for an Intel-based UGREEN NAS. Replace the placeholder media paths with the paths used by your

    own storage pool and shared folders.

    For a more detailed line-by-line explanation of the YAML file, see my free Patreon membership post: Mackey Tech – Jellyfin Docker YAML Breakdown

    Understanding Volume Paths

    Docker volume mappings use the following format:

    NAS path : container path

    The path on the left points to the real folder on the UGREEN NAS. The path on the right is where Jellyfin sees

    that folder inside its container. When adding a library in Jellyfin, you select the container path, not the original

    UGOS file-system path.

    For example, if this mapping is used:

    */path/to/Media/Movies:/media/movies:ro

    Jellyfin will browse the folder as /media/movies. The optional ‘:ro’ makes the mount read-only, allowing

    Jellyfin to scan and play the files without modifying or deleting them.

    Where Should You Store Your Media?

    The relative paths used for Jellyfin’s configuration and cache keep those files inside the Docker Project

    directory. This is convenient and makes the application easier to manage.

    For a permanent media library, it is usually better to store movies and television shows in separate shared

    folders outside Docker’s default project directory. This keeps your personal media separate from the

    application files and makes it easier to:

    • Access the media through SMB or the UGREEN File Manager

    • Back up the media separately from the Jellyfin application

    • Rebuild or replace the Jellyfin container without moving the library

    • Allow other applications to access the same media collection

    A sensible arrangement is to keep /config and /cache with the Docker Project while mapping your existing

    Movies and TV Shows shared folders into the container.

    Deploy the Project and Open Jellyfin

    YAML is indentation-sensitive, so use spaces rather than tabs and verify that each section is aligned

    correctly. Deploy the project and confirm that the Jellyfin container is running.

    The example port mapping is:

    * 8900:8096

    The first number is the port used on the NAS. The second number is Jellyfin’s internal HTTP port. If the NAS

    has the local IP address 192.168.1.100, open: http://192.168.1.100:8900

    You may replace port 8900 with another unused NAS port. The internal port normally remains 8096.

    Complete the Jellyfin Web Setup

    The first time you open Jellyfin, the setup wizard will guide you through the basic configuration:

    • Select your preferred language.

    • Create the administrator account and choose a strong password.

    • Create separate libraries for Movies, Shows, Music, Home Videos, and other content types.

    • Select the container-side folder paths, such as /media/movies and /media/tv.

    • Choose the preferred metadata language and country.

    • Decide whether Jellyfin should allow remote connections.Allowing remote connections in Jellyfin does not automatically make the server securely accessible from the internet. Avoid directly forwarding the Jellyfin port unless you understand the security implications. A private-access service such as Tailscale is often a simpler option.

    Organizing Movie Libraries

    The release year helps Jellyfin distinguish remakes and similarly named movies. Giving each movie its own

    folder also makes posters, subtitles, extras, and alternate versions easier to manage.

    Organizing TV Show Libraries

    The most important part of an episode filename is the season-and-episode identifier, such as S01E01.

    Specials are commonly placed in a Season 00 folder, and a file containing multiple episodes can use a

    format such as S01E01-E02.

    Direct Play and Transcoding

    Direct Play sends the original file to the playback device without converting it. This uses relatively little

    processing power. Transcoding occurs when Jellyfin must convert the video, audio, container, resolution,

    bitrate, or subtitles for the client device.

    Transcoding may be required when a client does not support the original codec, the available bandwidth is

    limited, a lower streaming quality is selected, subtitles must be burned into the video, or HDR tone mapping is

    required.

    Intel Quick Sync on the DXP6800 Pro

    This demonstration uses the UGREEN NASync DXP6800 Pro, which has an Intel Core i5-1235U processor

    with integrated Intel graphics. Intel Quick Sync Video can accelerate supported video decoding and encoding,

    reducing the load on the CPU during transcoding.

    The /dev/dri:/dev/dri device mapping gives the Jellyfin container access to the compatible graphics

    device. After the initial setup, open: Dashboard > Playback > Transcoding

    For this Intel system, Intel Quick Sync or VA-API will usually be the relevant hardware-acceleration options.

    Do not enable every codec simply because it appears in the menu; supported formats depend on the

    processor generation and driver configuration.

    AMD Ryzen and ARM-Based UGREEN Models

    Other UGREEN models use AMD Ryzen or ARM-based processors. Jellyfin can support hardware

    acceleration on compatible AMD and Rockchip hardware, but the exact method and container configuration

    may differ from the Intel example in this guide.

    Actual hardware-transcoding support depends on the specific processor, its integrated media engine, the

    available Linux drivers, whether UGOS exposes the graphics device to Docker, and whether the Jellyfin

    image includes the required support. These systems can still use Direct Play even when hardware

    transcoding is unavailable.

    Library and Naming Media

    • Keep movies, television shows, music, and home videos in separate libraries.

    • Include release years in movie and series folder names.

    • Use consistent SxxExx episode numbering.

    • Organize the files before the initial library scan whenever possible.

    • Correct any mismatched metadata from Jellyfin’s identification tools.

    • Back up the Jellyfin configuratioUn folder as well as your media.

    Backing up only the media will not preserve user accounts, watch history, library settings, custom metadata,

    or server preferences. Include the NAS folder mapped to /config in your regular backup strategy.

    Updating Jellyfin

    A Docker Project makes future changes straightforward. Edit the YAML and redeploy whenever you need to

    modify a path, port, device mapping, or another setting. Before major updates, back up the configuration

    folder, verify the volume paths, and review the release notes.

    The container itself should be treated as replaceable. The persistent configuration and media must remain

    outside the container so they survive an update or redeployment.

    Final Thoughts

    Installing Jellyfin from UGREEN’s App Center is the fastest route, but deploying it through the Docker app’s

    Project section provides greater control over storage, ports, hardware access, and future changes.

    The key concept is understanding the difference between the real path on the NAS and the path Jellyfin sees

    inside its container. Once the paths are mapped correctly and the media is organized using consistent

    naming conventions, Jellyfin can build a polished and easy-to-browse personal streaming library.

    My UGREEN NAS Overviews

    Why I walked Away from Synology after 15 years!

    I Swapped UGOS For TrueNAS On the UGREEN DXP 4800 Pro, Here’s What Happened!

    💻 Hardware Used:

    ✅ Some links may be affiliate links, which help support me and help keep ads off here!

    1. UGREEN DXP6800 Pro: https://amzn.to/4tKmKoF
    2. 4x 8TB Ironwolf HDD Used in 6800 Pro: https://amzn.to/4diniNt
    3. 256 Kingspec NVMe Drive: https://amzn.to/4ukfJvG

  • Cloud or Self-hosted Smart Homes: What Beginners Need to Know

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    One of the most confusing parts of getting started with smart home automation is understanding all the terminology. Do you need the cloud to operate security cameras? Is Zigbee a company or a type of device? What exactly does Home Assistant do, and how do all these different technologies work together?

    The good news is that building a smart home becomes much easier once you understand the role each piece plays. In this guide, we’ll translate the marketing language and technical jargon into plain English so you can make better decisions about your own smart home.

    What Is a Smart Home?

    A smart home is simply a collection of connected devices that can monitor, control, or automate things around your house. These devices might include lights, locks, thermostats, cameras, motion sensors, smart outlets, doorbells, and window sensors.

    Some smart home devices communicate directly over your home’s Wi-Fi network, just like your phone, computer, or tablet. Others use wireless technologies specifically designed for smart home equipment, including Zigbee, Z-Wave, and Thread.

    The devices are usually managed through a platform such as Amazon Alexa, Google Home, Samsung SmartThings,

    , or Home Assistant. These platforms allow you to control devices from a mobile app, create automations, or use voice commands.

    How Does Zigbee Work?

    Zigbee is a low-power wireless communication protocol designed primarily for smart home devices. It has been around since 2004 and is commonly used by smart bulbs, outlets, motion sensors, switches, and other battery-powered devices.

    Philips Hue smart bulbs are a popular example of Zigbee devices. The bulbs communicate with a hub, such as the Philips Hue Bridge, which then connects the Zigbee network to your regular home network.

    You can think of the hub as a translator. Your Zigbee devices communicate using Zigbee, while your phone, computer, and home network communicate using standard networking technologies. The hub allows those two systems to work together.

    One of Zigbee’s biggest advantages is its ability to create a mesh network. Many powered Zigbee devices, including smart outlets and bulbs, can repeat signals for other devices. Instead of every sensor communicating directly with the hub, the signal can hop between devices.

    This can improve coverage and reliability, especially in larger homes. However, Zigbee operates in the same general frequency range as many Wi-Fi networks, which means interference can occasionally become an issue if the networks are not configured carefully.

    How Is Z-Wave Different From Zigbee?

    Z-Wave is another low-power wireless protocol designed for smart home devices. It operates similarly to Zigbee and can also create a mesh network, but it generally uses a different wireless frequency than Wi-Fi.

    Because Z-Wave operates separately from most Wi-Fi traffic, there is usually less risk of interference. Z-Wave devices must also go through a certification process, which helps ensure that devices from different manufacturers work together properly.

    The disadvantage is that Z-Wave is a proprietary technology. You may find fewer available products, and Z-Wave devices can sometimes cost more than comparable Zigbee devices.

    Ring window sensors and motion sensors are common examples of devices that may use Z-Wave. To connect Z-Wave devices to a smart home system, you will need a compatible hub or USB coordinator.

    What Is Thread?

    Thread is another low-power mesh networking technology designed for smart home devices. It is similar to Zigbee and Z-Wave, but Thread uses Internet Protocol, commonly called IP, to help devices communicate across your home network.

    The easiest way to understand Thread is to think of it as a mail carrier. The mail carrier knows where a package needs to go, but it does not necessarily know what is inside the package or what the message means.

    Thread handles the delivery of information between devices. However, another technology is needed to define what those devices are saying to one another. That is where Matter comes in.

    Why Does Matter… matter?

    Matter is a smart home communication standard designed to help compatible devices work across different platforms. A Matter-compatible device may work with Amazon Alexa, Apple Home, Google Home, Samsung SmartThings, and Home Assistant without requiring a completely separate version for each platform.

    Development of Matter began in 2019 under the name Project CHIP, which stood for Connected Home over IP. The project included companies such as Apple, Amazon, Google, and the Zigbee Alliance, which is now known as the Connectivity Standards Alliance.

    The project was renamed Matter in 2021, and Matter 1.0 was officially released the following year. Since then, major smart home companies have continued adding Matter support to their products and platforms.

    Matter does not replace Wi-Fi, Ethernet, or Thread. Instead, Matter is the common language devices use to communicate. The underlying network, such as Wi-Fi or Thread, is responsible for delivering the message.

    What Is a Thread Border Router?

    A Thread Border Router connects your Thread devices to the rest of your home network. It performs a role similar to a Zigbee hub, although the underlying technology works differently.

    Some smart speakers, streaming devices, and smart home hubs include Thread Border Router functionality. Certain Amazon Echo models, Apple HomePods, Apple TVs, Google Nest devices, and other supported products may provide this capability.

    One advantage of Thread is that a home can have multiple Border Routers working together. This can improve wireless coverage and make the network more resilient if one Border Router becomes unavailable.

    How Do Alexa & SmartThings Control Devices?

    Cloud-based smart home platforms such as Amazon Alexa and Samsung SmartThings can manage devices that communicate using several different technologies.

    Some devices connect directly over Wi-Fi. Others use Zigbee, Z-Wave, Matter, or Thread. Whether you need a separate hub depends on the smart home platform and the capabilities built into the device controlling it.

    For example, certain Amazon Echo and Echo Show models include built-in Zigbee support. Newer models may also act as Matter controllers or Thread Border Routers.

    Samsung SmartThings commonly uses the Aeotec Smart Home Hub. This hub supports several technologies, including Zigbee, Z-Wave, Matter, Thread, Wi-Fi, and Bluetooth. Supporting multiple protocols allows SmartThings users to combine compatible devices from several manufacturers rather than depending entirely on one brand.

    These platforms are considered cloud-based because features such as remote access, account management, voice recognition, software integrations, and device coordination may rely on the company’s servers. Your smart bulb does not necessarily need the internet simply to produce light, but the platform controlling it may depend on cloud services for certain features.

    How Are Security Cameras Different?

    Security cameras are more complicated than smart bulbs, locks, or motion sensors because cameras generate and store large amounts of video.

    Cloud-based camera systems such as Ring and Google Nest allow you to view live video, receive motion alerts, and manage cameras remotely. However, saving recordings and reviewing historical footage generally requires a subscription.

    After purchasing and installing the cameras, the provider manages the cloud storage, mobile app, software updates, and backend infrastructure. This makes cloud-based surveillance convenient for users who do not want to maintain their own recording equipment.

    The exact subscription structure varies by provider. Some plans are based primarily on how many devices you own, while others are based on how much event or continuous video history you want to retain.

    The primary benefit is convenience. You install the camera, connect it to your network, subscribe to the appropriate service, and allow the provider to manage the rest.

    What Does Self-Hosting Mean?

    Self-hosting means running services on equipment that you own instead of relying entirely on a third-party cloud platform.

    For a surveillance system, this usually means storing camera footage on a local recorder, server, or network appliance inside your home. You determine how much footage is retained, who can access it, and how the system is configured.

    The trade-off is that you are responsible for purchasing, configuring, maintaining, and occasionally troubleshooting the equipment. Self-hosting can require more time and a larger upfront investment, but it gives you more control over your system and your data.

    Using UniFi Protect for Local Video Surveillance

    I use UniFi Protect with five cameras, including a video doorbell. My recordings are stored locally on equipment in my basement, and I decide how long the footage is retained.

    Once the system was configured, it required very little ongoing attention. UniFi Protect manages the available storage and automatically removes older recordings when space is needed.

    The UniFi Protect mobile app allows me to view live feeds, review recordings, receive alerts, and create user accounts for family members. There is no monthly subscription required to access my locally stored recordings.

    Another advantage is that features such as person, vehicle, and motion detection can be processed locally. Cloud services may still be used to make remote access more convenient, but the video analysis and primary storage remain on equipment that I own.

    One of the more affordable ways to begin using UniFi Protect is with a Cloudkey Gen 2 Plus. It runs the UniFi Protect software and includes local storage for camera recordings.

    Wired UniFi cameras generally connect through a Power over Ethernet switch or PoE injector. This allows a single Ethernet cable to carry both power and data. UniFi doorbells can use existing doorbell wiring for power and connect to your network over Wi-Fi, depending on the model.

    The primary disadvantage is that UniFi Protect is designed mainly around UniFi cameras and hardware. It is an excellent option for people who want a polished, integrated platform, but it may not be ideal for someone who already owns cameras from several different manufacturers.

    Using Frigate as an Open-Source NVR

    Frigate is a free, open-source network video recorder that offers more flexibility than many closed camera ecosystems.

    It can work with supported cameras from a variety of manufacturers, making it useful for people who want to build a surveillance system around equipment they already own.

    Frigate generally requires more setup and technical knowledge than Ring, Nest, or UniFi Protect. It also may not provide the same polished mobile experience without additional configuration.

    However, it gives you significant control over your cameras, recordings, object detection, and storage. For someone who enjoys self-hosting and wants to avoid being locked into one camera brand, Frigate can be an excellent option.

    What Is Home Assistant?

    Home Assistant is free, open-source smart home software that can run on many modern computers, mini PCs, virtual machines, and single-board computers such as the Raspberry Pi 4 or Raspberry Pi 5.

    It brings devices from different brands and wireless technologies into a single interface. Your smart lights, thermostats, security sensors, cameras, outlets, door locks, and other devices can all be controlled from one platform.

    Some smart home technologies require additional hardware. For example, connecting Zigbee or Z-Wave devices directly to Home Assistant typically requires a compatible USB coordinator.

    Once the appropriate hardware and integrations are configured, Home Assistant can allow devices from different ecosystems to work together in ways that may not be possible through the manufacturer’s app alone.

    For example, Philips Hue lights, Ring alarm sensors, UniFi Protect cameras, Nest thermostats, smart outlets, and door locks can potentially participate in the same automations.

    Why Home Assistant Is So Powerful

    Where Home Assistant really stands out is automation.

    A basic smart home platform might allow you to turn a light on with your phone or voice. Home Assistant allows you to create automations based on time, motion, temperature, device status, weather conditions, sunrise, sunset, occupancy, and many other triggers.

    Your porch lights could turn on 30 minutes before sunset. Your smart shades could close automatically when the outdoor temperature rises above 85 degrees. Your basement lights could flash red when a water leak is detected.

    You could also adjust motion detection schedules, send notifications when doors are left open, turn devices off when nobody is home, or combine several conditions into a single automation.

    The possibilities are nearly endless because you decide how the devices should work together.

    How I Use Home Assistant Automations

    In my studio, the lights are connected to Zigbee smart outlets. I use a Zigbee remote to control all of them at once.

    A single press turns every studio light on, while a double press turns them off. Home Assistant receives the remote signal through a Zigbee USB coordinator and then runs the automation controlling each outlet.

    I also use a Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W with a motion sensor to control a light in my office. When the Raspberry Pi detects motion, it sends that information to Home Assistant over Wi-Fi.

    Home Assistant then turns on the office light through a Wi-Fi smart plug. After five minutes without motion, Home Assistant automatically turns the light off.

    This is a good example of how Home Assistant can combine completely different technologies. The motion sensor is connected to a Raspberry Pi, the Pi communicates over Wi-Fi, and the light is connected through a Wi-Fi smart plug. Home Assistant ties everything together.

    Does Home Assistant Require the Cloud?

    Home Assistant can control many devices and automations locally without sending your data to an external cloud provider.

    However, whether a particular device works entirely locally depends on how that device was designed. Some integrations communicate directly with devices on your network, while others rely on the manufacturer’s cloud service.

    Choosing devices with strong local control support can help reduce your dependence on cloud services. It can also allow important automations to continue working during an internet outage.

    Remote access can also be configured in several ways. Home Assistant offers its own subscription service for convenient remote access, but experienced users can also configure other secure remote-access methods.

    Is Self-Hosting Right for You?

    Cloud-based and self-hosted smart homes solve different problems.

    If you want to install a few smart devices, control them through an app or voice assistant, and avoid managing the underlying technology, a cloud-based platform such as Alexa, Google Home, Ring, Nest, or SmartThings may be the better choice.

    These companies handle most software updates, remote access, infrastructure, storage management, and account services for you.

    Self-hosting may be more appealing if you enjoy learning new technology, want greater privacy, prefer to own your data, or want more control over how your devices work together.

    The disadvantages are the larger upfront investment and the time required to learn, configure, maintain, and occasionally troubleshoot the system. In exchange, you gain much more flexibility and are less dependent on one company’s subscription plans or product ecosystem.

    Cloud-Based & Self-Hosted Systems Can Work Together

    Choosing self-hosting does not mean you have to completely abandon cloud-based services.

    I still use Alexa occasionally for voice control, while Home Assistant handles many of my automations and locally managed devices. UniFi Protect stores my camera recordings locally, while remote-access services make it convenient to view those recordings away from home.

    A smart home does not have to follow one specific philosophy. You can combine local and cloud-based services based on what works best for your household.

    The goal is not to build the most complicated smart home possible. The goal is to build a system that is reliable, useful, and comfortable for you to maintain.

    Final Thoughts

    Zigbee, Z-Wave, Thread, Matter, Wi-Fi, hubs, cloud services, and self-hosted platforms can sound overwhelming when you first encounter them. However, each technology performs a relatively specific role.

    Zigbee and Z-Wave connect low-power smart devices. Thread provides a modern IP-based mesh network. Matter gives compatible devices a shared language. Hubs and Border Routers connect these networks to the rest of your home. Platforms such as Alexa, SmartThings, and Home Assistant provide the interface and automation tools that bring everything together.

    There is no universally correct way to build a smart home. Cloud-based platforms prioritize convenience, while self-hosted platforms prioritize control, flexibility, and local data ownership.

    The best choice depends on how much time you want to spend managing the system and how much control you want over the technology running inside your home.

    Other Home Assistant Videos I’ve Done:

    Running Home Assistant On a Raspberry Pi!

    💻 Hardware Used:

    ✅ Some links may be affiliate links, which help support me and help keep ads off here!

    Zigbee USB Hub: https://amzn.to/44fIGxA

    Philips Hue Bulb: https://amzn.to/4eFtvDW

    Philips Hue Zigbee Hub: https://amzn.to/4eVObqd

    Aeotec Smart Things Home Hub (Zigbee and Z-Wave Compatible): https://amzn.to/4vVikgv

    Amazon’s Echo Dot (4th Gen) Zigbee compatible: https://amzn.to/4vcb1zU

    Z-wave Smart Outlet: https://amzn.to/4gqmJ6p

  • Can These $500 Smart Shades Stop My Dogs From Yelling at My Neighbor?

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    I didn’t decide to install smart shades because I was desperate to automate my windows.

    I installed them because my dog wouldn’t stop barking at my neighbor!

    Every time our neighbor walked through his own yard, my dogs would spot him through the kitchen window and immediately launch into full-scale neighborhood alert mode. Apparently the audacity of someone using their own backyard was simply too much to tolerate.

    So when SmartWings offered to send me one of their smart shades for review, I figured this was the perfect opportunity to solve a real-world problem while also seeing how well the shades integrate with Home Assistant.

    The question was simple: would smart shades help reduce the barking?

    As it turns out, the answer is… complicated.

    Who is Smart Wings?

    Smart Wings is a Texas-based company that specializes in custom motorized window coverings. They offer a wide range of products including roller shades, Roman shades, blinds, and drapes, along with support for several smart home ecosystems.

    Depending on the motor you choose, Smart Wings shades can work with platforms such as Amazon Alexa, Google Home, Apple Home, SmartThings, and Home Assistant. For this review, I tested one of their Linen Roman Shades equipped with a Zigbee motor.

    Since every shade is custom-made, there are a lot of configuration options available, which can be both a blessing and a curse.

    Ordering the Shades

    For this part of the review, I let my wife take the lead because she’s far more interested in fabrics, colors, and all the feng shui-related decisions that usually cause my eyes to glaze over.

    According to her, the Smart Wings website was easy to navigate and made it simple to browse through the various styles, fabrics, and color options. One feature she especially appreciated was the ability to order fabric samples before making a final decision.

    The ordering process does involve more decisions than simply entering your window dimensions. You’ll need to choose things like mounting style, fabric type, motor location, control options, and more. While that may seem overwhelming at first, those choices ultimately allow you to tailor the shade to your specific installation.

    The one area she found confusing was selecting the motor.

    Choosing the Right Motor

    If there’s one technical decision you’ll need to make during the ordering process, it’s choosing the motor.

    Smart Wings offers several motor options that support different smart home technologies. The standard motor is included at no additional cost and still works with a remote, but it doesn’t offer any smart home integration.

    If you want smart home support, you’ll need to upgrade. The Zigbee motor I selected added $29 to the price, while the Matter-over-Thread option adds about $94.

    Since I already run Home Assistant with an existing Zigbee network, choosing the Zigbee motor was an easy decision.

    The important thing to remember is that the motor determines how the shade communicates with your smart home platform. If you’re heavily invested in Apple Home, for example, the Matter-over-Thread option may be a better fit.

    Personally, I think Smart Wings could improve this part of the ordering experience by offering a simple wizard that asks which smart home platform you use and then recommends the best motor options.

    Price and Shipping

    The particular configuration I tested came in at roughly $522.

    That price included the upgraded remote control and the optional solar charging panel, which added about $10 and $50 respectively.

    Because these shades are custom-made and shipped from China, you’ll also need to account for some production and shipping time. In my case, I placed the order on April 27th and received the shades on May 15th, which was consistent with Smart Wings’ published delivery estimates.

    What’s In the Box?

    Inside the box, we have-

    • * The custom Roman shade
    • * Remote control
    • * Mounting hardware
    • * Installation manuals
    • * USB-C charging cable
    • * Optional solar charging panel (if ordered)

    Overall, everything arrived well packaged and ready for installation.

    Installation and Setup

    Installation was mostly straightforward, although I did run into one small issue.

    Neither the shades nor the manual clearly identified which side was the front and which side was the back. Once I figured that out, the rest of the installation went smoothly.

    I shared that feedback with my contact at Smart Wings, and they were very receptive to the suggestion, so hopefully that’s something they’ll improve in future documentation. One thing I really appreciated was that the remote arrived pre-programmed. Pairing took only a few seconds because everything was already configured from the factory.

    The only awkward part of setup involved accessing the pairing button on the motor itself. It’s hidden on the back of the motor and recessed enough that you’ll probably need a small tool to press it.

    In my installation, the motor sits fairly close to the mounting surface, making the button difficult to access after installation. Looking back, I’d recommend pairing and configuring everything before mounting the shade.

    Thankfully, this is something you’ll probably only need to do once.

    Home Assistant Integration

    One of my primary goals was to automate the shades through Home Assistant.

    The plan was simple: Close the shades at dusk and Open the shades at dawn!

    Unfortunately, things didn’t go exactly as planned.

    The standard Open and Close commands weren’t behaving correctly within Home Assistant. I spent several hours troubleshooting the issue, reviewing Zigbee settings, testing automations, and checking device configurations.

    At the time of filming, I wasn’t able to determine whether the problem was related to the motor firmware, Zigbee integration, or Home Assistant itself.

    Fortunately, there was an easy workaround.

    Using absolute position values worked perfectly. Setting the shade to 0% fully closed it, while 100% fully opened it. Every position in between worked exactly as expected.

    As a result, I simply changed my automations to use position values instead of Open and Close commands, and everything worked flawlessly.

    Problem solved.

    Mostly.

    Remote Control Performance

    The upgraded 15-channel remote performed exactly as expected.

    My shade arrived assigned to Channel 3, and if I decide to add more shades later, I can simply assign them to different channels while continuing to use the same remote.

    The remote can also be used to adjust motor settings, upper and lower travel limits, and even motor speed.

    At the default setting, it took roughly 15 seconds for the shade to fully open from the closed position.

    Day-to-Day Use

    After spending some time with the shade, I can honestly say I enjoy using it.

    The fabric looks great, the motor is reasonably quiet, the remote is responsive, and the overall experience feels polished. Small details like the pre-programmed remote help make setup easier and contribute to a more premium feel.

    That said, I did encounter a few documentation inconsistencies and translation quirks that occasionally made installation and troubleshooting more difficult than necessary.

    And because I’ve only been using the shade for a short period of time, I can’t really comment on long-term reliability. Whether the motor performs just as well 30, 90, or 365 days from now is something only time will tell.

    On the plus side, Smart Wings backs the motor with a 3-year warranty, which does provide some extra peace of mind.

    Did It Solve My Dog Problem?

    Remember the original goal?

    Stopping the dogs from barking at the neighbor? Well… The dogs are still barking.

    The only difference is that now they’re barking at the shades that were installed to stop them from barking at the neighbor.

    So instead of solving one problem, I may have accidentally created a brand-new one.

    I’m still not entirely convinced I’m not being punked.

    Final Thoughts

    Overall, I came away impressed with the Smart Wings experience.

    The ordering process was straightforward, the customization options were extensive, installation was relatively easy, and the Home Assistant integration worked well once I switched to position-based controls.

    They’re definitely not cheap, but if you’re looking for custom motorized shades that integrate into a smart home ecosystem, Smart Wings offers a compelling option with plenty of flexibility.

    As for whether they’re worth over $500, that ultimately depends on how much value you place on convenience, automation, and custom-made window coverings.

    For me, the shades worked well.

    The dogs, however, remain unconvinced. 😄

  • Can a 10-Year-Old Mini PC Still Game?

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    So I recently stumbled across an old Intel Skull Canyon NUC that had been sitting in a closet for the last couple of years. It was still running Windows 10, and when I say “running,” I’m being pretty generous. Web browsing was sluggish, YouTube playback dropped frames constantly, boot times felt endless, and the overall experience made it clear this machine had seen better days.

    To be fair, we’re talking about a system with only 8GB of RAM and a 6th-generation Intel Core i7 processor. On the other hand, it does have Intel’s Iris Pro 580 graphics, which were surprisingly capable for integrated graphics back when this machine was released. It also offers plenty of connectivity, including Thunderbolt 3, Gigabit Ethernet, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and support for up to three displays.

    Rather than letting it continue collecting dust, I decided to see if Linux could breathe some new life into it.

    Why I Chose Bazzite

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    When I asked my audience which Linux gaming distribution they preferred, the results weren’t even close. Bazzite received roughly 71% of the vote, while ChimeraOS and Batocera were tied at around 14% each.

    That made the decision pretty easy.

    Bazzite is based on Fedora Atomic and aims to provide an experience similar to SteamOS. It comes with Steam, Lutris, gaming drivers, controller support, and a variety of gaming-focused optimizations right out of the box. Through Lutris and other launchers, it can also access games from platforms like GOG, and even supports Android applications through Waydroid.

    Before installing anything, I updated the NUC’s BIOS, replaced the dead CMOS battery, and cleaned out years of dust accumulation so the cooling fan would stop sounding like a small aircraft preparing for takeoff.

    Installing Bazzite

    My original goal was to transform this NUC into a living room gaming machine using Steam Gaming Mode. Unfortunately, Gaming Mode isn’t supported on this particular hardware, so I went with the KDE desktop version instead.

    After flashing the installer to a USB drive with Balena Etcher, installation was quick and painless thanks to the NUC’s 500GB NVMe SSD.

    Once the system was up and running, I installed EmuDeck. If you’re not familiar with it, EmuDeck automates much of the emulator setup process and makes transferring ROMs significantly easier. It removes a lot of the hassle normally associated with emulation.

    Testing Emulation Performance

    The first game I loaded up was God of War II for the PlayStation 2.

    Honestly, I was impressed. Gameplay felt smooth, controls were responsive, audio stayed perfectly synchronized, and I didn’t experience any crashes or noticeable slowdowns. Using an Xbox 360 controller felt completely natural.

    Next, I fired up Gran Turismo 4. Performance was just as solid, although my driving certainly wasn’t. Despite what the footage may suggest, no alcohol was involved during testing—I simply have terrible racing-game skills.

    Moving on to GameCube emulation, I tested The Legend of Zelda: The Wind Waker with shaders enabled. Once again, performance was excellent. Controls felt responsive, audio was crisp, and I didn’t encounter any lag.

    As a longtime Metroid fan, I couldn’t resist trying Metroid Prime 2: Echoes. The result was more of the same: smooth gameplay, responsive controls, and no stuttering whatsoever.

    At this point, it was becoming clear that this old NUC still had plenty of life left in it when it came to sixth-generation console emulation.

    How Did Steam Games Perform?

    After spending time with emulators, it was time to move over to native PC gaming through Steam.

    Fallout: New Vegas

    Running at 1280×1024 with mostly high settings, Fallout: New Vegas consistently delivered between 65 and 75 FPS. For a ten-year-old mini PC, that’s pretty impressive and made for a very enjoyable experience.

    Borderlands 2

    Borderlands 2 performed similarly. Frame rates were slightly lower, but gameplay remained smooth and responsive with no major issues.

    F.E.A.R.

    One of the biggest surprises was the original F.E.A.R.

    This game was notoriously demanding when it launched nearly two decades ago thanks to its advanced lighting and shadow effects. On the Skull Canyon NUC, however, it regularly exceeded 120 FPS and felt fantastic to play.

    It also remains just as creepy as I remember.

    Contra: Operation Galuga

    I also spent some time playing Contra: Operation Galuga, a modern reimagining of the classic Contra series.

    The game ran smoothly, controls were responsive, audio worked flawlessly, and I experienced no crashes or major performance problems. More importantly, it was simply a lot of fun.

    Hades

    The original Hades was another standout.

    Running at 1920×1080, frame rates generally stayed between 90 and 110 FPS. Gameplay felt incredibly smooth, controller response was excellent, and I didn’t encounter any lag whatsoever.

    The Games That Didn’t Work So Well

    Half-Life 2

    Half-Life 2 initially crashed at the welcome screen. Enabling Proton compatibility mode allowed me to play briefly, but the game eventually crashed again.

    There are probably fixes available, but for this test I wanted to evaluate the out-of-the-box experience rather than spend hours troubleshooting individual games.

    Doom Eternal

    Doom Eternal proved to be too much for the hardware.

    The game requires at least 4GB of dedicated video memory, which is significantly more than this NUC can provide. I repeatedly ran into memory-related errors before I could perform any meaningful testing.

    Counter-Strike 2

    Counter-Strike 2 came surprisingly close to being playable. I was able to navigate menus and nearly enter a match, but the game frequently hung and eventually crashed.

    Even so, the fact that a modern AAA title got that far on a decade-old mini PC was impressive in its own way.

    Final Thoughts

    Going into this project, I wasn’t expecting much.

    After all, this is a ten-year-old mini PC with only 8GB of RAM that had spent years collecting dust in a closet. Yet after installing Bazzite, it turned into a surprisingly capable little gaming machine.

    No, it isn’t going to replace a modern gaming desktop. It’s not going to become a PlayStation 3 emulation powerhouse, either. But for GameCube, Wii, PlayStation 2 emulation, older Steam games, and even some newer titles, it delivered a much better experience than I expected.

    Would Fedora, Nobara, ChimeraOS, or Batocera have produced similar results? Probably. But what impressed me most wasn’t necessarily Bazzite itself—it was discovering just how much life was still left in this old hardware.

    Sometimes the best upgrade isn’t buying something new. It’s finding a new purpose for something you already own.

    So now I’m curious: What’s the oldest computer you’ve managed to game on recently, and what Linux distribution are you using?

  • JetKVM is the most affordable and easiest remote access tool!

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    The Headless Server Problem

    If you run any kind of homelab setup, there’s a good chance you’ve eventually run into this situation: a server suddenly refuses to boot, SSH stops responding, or a Linux update leaves the machine hanging at a black screen. And because the system is “headless,” meaning there’s no monitor or keyboard attached, troubleshooting suddenly becomes a whole lot more annoying.

    Why Enterprise Servers Handle This Better

    If you’re using enterprise-style server hardware, there’s a good chance your motherboard already includes something called IPMI, or Intelligent Platform Management Interface. Even though the name sounds complicated, the idea is actually pretty simple. It allows you to remotely interact with the physical machine itself, even if the operating system crashes or the computer won’t boot.

    What Is an IP-KVM?

    The challenge is that most consumer motherboards, mini PCs, and single-board computers don’t include those remote management features. That’s where IP-KVM devices come in. “IP-KVM” stands for keyboard, video, and mouse over IP, meaning these devices let you remotely view and control another computer over your network, even at the BIOS or boot level.

    Enter JetKVM

    JetKVM takes the IP-KVM idea and turns it into a much more polished plug-and-play appliance. In my case, I connected it to my ZimaBoard 2, which I use as my second Proxmox node. The setup was simple: HDMI from the ZimaBoard into the JetKVM, USB-C for keyboard and mouse control, and Ethernet for network access.

    Using JetKVM in the Browser

    Once JetKVM boots, it displays its IP address on the built-in screen. From there, you type that address into a browser on another computer and get a remote console view of the machine. In my case, I could access the Proxmox CLI almost like I was sitting directly in front of the ZimaBoard with a monitor and keyboard.

    Why This Is Different from SSH or Remote Desktop

    The big advantage is that JetKVM works underneath the operating system. SSH, Remote Desktop, VNC, and similar tools all depend on the operating system being functional. But with KVM-over-IP, you can still see and interact with the machine even if it’s frozen, stuck at GRUB, sitting in the BIOS, or refusing to boot.

    JetKVM Cloud and Remote Access

    By default, JetKVM is designed for local network access, but it also supports JetKVM Cloud for remote access outside your home network. You enable remote access in the settings, log in with a Google account, and the device appears in the cloud dashboard. JetKVM says the connection is encrypted end-to-end, and it uses WebRTC for the remote connection.

    Virtual Media and ISO Mounting

    Another useful feature is virtual media support. JetKVM can store ISO files directly on the device, and it also supports mounting installation media through a public URL. That means you can remotely boot installers or recovery environments without physically touching the machine.

    Power Control Requires an Add-On

    JetKVM can control the keyboard, mouse, and video side of things by itself, but it can’t physically power a device on or off unless you use the optional DC Power Control accessory. That add-on sits inline with supported barrel-jack powered devices and lets JetKVM cut and restore power remotely.

    Performance and Responsiveness

    Performance was better than I expected. It doesn’t feel exactly like sitting physically in front of the machine, but for BIOS navigation, Linux installs, troubleshooting, and general server management, it felt very usable. The video quality was fine, keyboard input was responsive, and the web interface stayed simple.

    Who JetKVM Is Really For

    JetKVM probably isn’t necessary if you only have one desktop sitting next to your monitor. But once you start running multiple systems, Proxmox nodes, TrueNAS boxes, Docker servers, or other always-on services, having low-level remote access becomes incredibly useful.

    Final Thoughts

    JetKVM helps bridge the gap between enterprise-style remote management and the consumer hardware many of us actually use in homelabs. It’s one of those tools you may not fully appreciate until a system refuses to boot and you realize you can recover it remotely without ever plugging in a monitor.

    ✅ Hardware Used :

    *Certain links are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission on qualifying purchases—at no additional cost to you.

  • Should You Install TrueNAS on the UGREEN DXP 4800 Pro NAS?

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    A lot of homelabers seem pretty split right now between going fully DIY with something like TrueNAS or Unraid, or just buying a more turnkey NAS from companies like  Synology, QNAP, or  UGREEN and obviously, both approaches have their pros and cons.

    DIY platforms usually give you a lot more flexibility and control over how everything works, while turnkey NAS systems tend to focus more on simplicity and ease of use. But what makes the UGREEN NAS DXP4800 Pro interesting is that it kind of sits somewhere in the middle of those two worlds.

    You still get the simpler UGOS setup and management side of things, but the hardware itself also feels surprisingly flexible since you’re not locked into proprietary RAM or storage upgrades. People have also been experimenting with things like Proxmox VE and TrueNAS on the hardware as well.

    In fact, I recently ran a couple polls on the channel asking whether people preferred more turnkey NAS platforms or more DIY solutions, and most people leaned heavily toward the DIY side of things, which honestly didn’t surprise me.

    So rather than turning this into another NAS review full of spreadsheets and synthetic benchmarks, the real question I wanted to answer was this:

    Can the UGREEN DXP4800 Pro still scratch that DIY homelab itch while also keeping some of the simplicity of a turnkey NAS?

    UGREEN sent me the DXP4800 Pro along with a few Seagate IronWolf drives to test out at no charge, but no money changed hands and, as always, all opinions are my own.

    Hardware and First Impressions

    Before getting too deep into TrueNAS testing, I first wanted to get UGOS set up and take a quick look at what the overall UGREEN ecosystem and user experience actually feels like.

    Hardware-wise, the DXP4800 Pro is a 4-bay NAS supporting up to 144TB of storage with a surprisingly generous mix of connectivity options. You’ve got HDMI out capable of 4K at 60Hz, an SD card slot for quickly importing footage or photos, multiple high-speed USB ports including 10Gb USB-C, and dual networking ports including both 10GbE and 2.5GbE.

    Internally, the system is powered by Intel’s Core i3-1315U processor and ships with 8GB of RAM. There are also two DDR5 memory slots supporting up to 96GB of RAM along with dual M.2 NVMe slots which can be used either for cache or additional storage pools.

    So from a hardware perspective, this honestly feels much closer to a compact homelab server than just a basic file storage box.

    Installing the drives was also pretty straightforward since the DXP4800 Pro uses a mostly tool-less design for mounting standard 3.5-inch drives into the sliding bays, while 2.5-inch drives use the included mounting screws already attached to the trays.

    Once installed, the drive trays slide in with a satisfying click, and the bays can also be locked using the included keys if you want a little extra security.

    And yes, the standard SATA hard drive bays are hot swappable on NASync series devices like the DXP4800 Pro, although according to UGREEN’s documentation, hot swapping SSDs and NVMe drives is not officially supported.

    Setting Up UGOS

    For my testing, I also installed a 256GB Kingspec NVMe SSD by removing the bottom cover and securing it with the included screws.

    With all the drives installed, I plugged the NAS into my network, connected the included 120W power adapter, and powered the system on.

    To initially register and connect to the NAS, you’ve got a few different options. You can use the official mobile app, navigate to find.ugnas.com in your browser, or install the desktop application, which is what I ended up doing.

    The setup process itself was honestly very simple. The software walks you through creating your administrator account and registering the NAS, then from there you can begin creating storage pools and configuring the filesystem.

    One thing I liked seeing was support for JBOD, or “Just a Bunch Of Disks,” which can be useful if you have mismatched drive sizes and simply want to maximize available storage capacity. That said, JBOD does not provide any redundancy or protection against drive failure like RAID configurations do.

    For my testing, I chose RAID 5 using Btrfs instead of ext4 so I’d have better snapshot support.

    Now one thing worth mentioning is that Btrfs RAID5 and RAID6 have had a somewhat controversial reputation over the years, which is one reason many homelab users still prefer ZFS for parity-based storage pools.

    A lot of the concern historically centered around parity consistency during unexpected power loss while data is actively being written, which is also why using a UPS is generally a smart idea regardless of the filesystem you choose.

    That said, I’ve personally been running Btrfs RAID5 on another UGREEN NAS for over a year now without issues — though as always, make sure you have proper backups and do your own research.

    Apps, Features, and Security

    After getting storage configured, I enabled SMB, WebDAV, FTP, Bonjour, and SSH, adjusted some permissions, created another user account, and configured a shared folder. Honestly, all of that was pretty easy.

    And if you do get stuck, there’s a built-in help section with links to tutorials and documentation directly inside the interface.

    Compared to something like Synology or QNAP, UGREEN’s app ecosystem is still relatively small, but it already includes a lot of the core functionality most people are probably looking for. Things like media streaming, snapshots, virtualization, cloud syncing, and Docker support are all already there.

    The Photos app also ties into UGREEN’s built-in AI model system for things like facial recognition, duplicate image detection, OCR text recognition, and even cat and dog breed recognition.

    Most of those AI features worked surprisingly well overall, although some parts still felt a little rough around the edges in my testing — particularly the pet breed recognition. I also noticed portions of UGREEN’s AI documentation felt somewhat incomplete, so I wasn’t really able to find a clear answer for a few of the issues I encountered.

    If you want remote access, UGOS also includes a feature called UGREENlink so you don’t have to deal with manual port forwarding. That said, if you’re especially security-conscious, you could always disable remote access entirely and instead use something like  TailscaleAttachment.tiff or your own VPN setup instead.

    I also liked several of the smaller security-focused touches throughout UGOS. SSH access can be limited to the local network, the system recommends using timed SSH sessions rather than leaving SSH permanently enabled, and there’s support for things like automatic IP blocking, firewall rules, TLS encryption settings, session management, certificate management, and built-in two-factor authentication.

    Overall, the platform seems to put a decent amount of focus on sensible security defaults and account protection right out of the box.

    Docker, Virtualization, and Media Streaming

    One area where I think a lot of people are probably going to spend time on a NAS like this is media streaming.

    For that, you can either install Jellyfin directly through the app store or deploy it yourself using Docker.

    Honestly, the Docker app reminded me a little bit of using Portainer. You basically search for an image, download it, and create the container. Very simple.

    There’s also a “Projects” feature that allows you to deploy multiple related containers together using a single YAML file. So instead of manually configuring every container individually, you can launch an entire stack at once — like the Joplin setup I showed running on my DXP6800 Pro which included both the application itself and a PostgreSQL database container.

    Power efficiency during testing was also pretty impressive. At idle, the DXP4800 Pro hovered around 31.5 watts.

    Even after running an Ubuntu virtual machine, allocating 4GB of RAM, installing Chromium, and simultaneously streaming a 20-minute 4K video through Jellyfin over 10GbE, the system only climbed to around 43–44 watts.

    Honestly, for a NAS with virtualization, Docker, 10Gb networking, and media streaming workloads, that’s pretty respectable.

    Installing TrueNAS

    Now let’s switch gears and install TrueNAS onto the 256GB NVMe drive I installed earlier so we can preserve the original UGOS installation.

    I also swapped in a separate set of 2TB IronWolf drives for this portion of the testing so I wouldn’t disturb the existing UGOS storage pools.

    I downloaded TrueNAS Community Edition version 25.10.3.1, flashed it to a USB drive using balenaEtcher, connected a monitor through HDMI, attached a keyboard and mouse dongle, and booted into the installer.

    Inside the BIOS, I enabled booting from the NVMe drive and disabled the system watchdog feature. Otherwise, the NAS would automatically reboot itself if it didn’t detect UGREEN OS running.

    After setting the TrueNAS USB installer as the primary boot device, I selected the 256GB NVMe SSD as the installation target and completed the installation.

    The process itself was actually pretty quick.

    Once installed, I configured networking, signed into the TrueNAS web interface, and immediately noticed one of the more classic ZFS behaviors: aggressive RAM caching.

    At first glance, memory usage looked surprisingly high even though I hadn’t created any pools yet, but that’s completely normal behavior for ZFS and one reason many DIY users prefer it.

    Power usage while mostly idle was still hovering around only 31.5–32 watts, which was honestly pretty impressive considering TrueNAS and its associated services were already running.

    The DIY Side of Things

    Once I created my ZFS mirror pool and enabled things like SSH and NFS, I started installing apps and virtual machines.

    And this is where the difference between turnkey and DIY platforms really becomes obvious.

    TrueNAS definitely has the more mature app ecosystem overall with a massive catalog of community-driven containerized applications. But compared to UGOS, there’s also a lot more manual configuration involved.

    You’re usually dealing with datasets, permissions, storage mappings, application paths, and network configuration before things work exactly the way you want.

    Long story short, TrueNAS expects you to think more like a system administrator.

    That added complexity gives you significantly more flexibility and control, but it also means there are a lot more moving parts involved compared to something like UGOS.

    For example, unlike UGOS — which includes a built-in browser-based VM console — I had to use a separate VNC application to remotely access my Ubuntu virtual machine installer inside TrueNAS.

    Power usage also climbed slightly higher under TrueNAS during heavier workloads. While streaming a local 4K video through Jellyfin and simultaneously installing Ubuntu 26.04 inside a VM, the system hovered around 51 watts, which honestly still seems pretty reasonable considering we were now running ZFS, virtualization, and media streaming workloads all at the same time.

    Final Thoughts

    After spending time with both UGOS and TrueNAS on the DXP4800 Pro, I really think UGREEN has found an interesting middle ground here.

    If you just want media streaming, backups, Docker, virtualization, simple remote access, and an easy-to-manage NAS, UGOS already feels surprisingly polished and approachable.

    But at the same time, the hardware itself also feels open enough that if you eventually want to experiment with something more DIY-focused like TrueNAS, Proxmox, or another operating system entirely, you can absolutely do that too.

    And honestly, I think that flexibility is a big reason these systems have become so popular in the homelab community recently.

    Personally, if I were setting something up for family members or somebody newer to self-hosting, I’d probably lean more toward leaving UGOS installed because it’s simpler and more approachable.

    But for people who enjoy deeper customization, virtualization, containers, advanced storage management, and tinkering with their systems, running something like TrueNAS on the hardware was actually a lot of fun.

    In the end though, I don’t really think this is about “UGOS versus TrueNAS.”

    It’s more about figuring out which approach fits you best.

    And with the Core i3 processor, support for up to 96GB of RAM, dual NVMe slots, and 10Gb networking, the DXP4800 Pro hardware itself feels very capable regardless of which direction you decide to go.

    And speaking of turkney NAS, i have a dedicated video on why I switched over to UGREEN after being a Synology customer for 15 years!

    💻 Hardware Used:

    ✅ Some links may be affiliate links, which help support me and help keep ads off here!

    1. 2TB Ironwolf HDD Used on TrueNAS: https://amzn.to/4uBXn9X
    2. UGREEN DXP4800 Pro: https://amzn.to/4uG8n67
    3. UGREEN DXP6800 Pro: https://amzn.to/4tKmKoF
    4. 4x 8TB Ironwolf HDD Used in 6800 Pro: https://amzn.to/4diniNt
    5. 256 Kingspec NVMe Drive: https://amzn.to/4ukfJvG

  • Build 3 Easy Projects with the Raspberry Pi Zero 2

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    With Raspberry Pi 4 and 5 pricing still being a bit high lately, I wanted to see if the more affordable Raspberry Pi Zero 2 could still be a practical option for real-world projects—which, ironically, is now priced around what the Pi 5 used to cost. In this guide, we’re going to get the Zero 2 up and running, walk through a quick introduction, and then connect a motion sensor, LED, breadboard, and camera module to build a few simple automation projects using Python.

    And if you’re new here and enjoy Raspberry Pi and homelab tutorials like this, consider subscribing to Mackey Tech so you don’t miss future content.

    Raspberry Pi Zero 2 Overview

    The Raspberry Pi Zero 2 comes with a modest 512MB of RAM, but it’s powered by a quad-core 64-bit ARM Cortex-A53 running at 1GHz—the same CPU found in the Raspberry Pi 3. The WH variant includes built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, along with a pre-soldered 40-pin GPIO header that uses the same layout as the Raspberry Pi 3 through Pi 5, making it fully compatible with most GPIO-based projects.

    The board includes two Micro-USB ports—one for power and one for data. For peripherals like a keyboard or mouse, you’ll need a Micro USB OTG adapter, while the power port should be connected to a reliable 5V 2.5A power supply. If you already have a Raspberry Pi 4 or 5 adapter and a USB-C to Micro-USB cable, that will work just fine. For display output, the Pi Zero 2 uses Mini-HDMI, so you’ll need a Mini-HDMI to HDMI cable.

    Flashing Raspberry Pi OS

    To get started, we’ll flash a MicroSD card using the Raspberry Pi Imager. Select the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 as the device and choose the 32-bit version of Raspberry Pi OS. The 32-bit version is recommended here since it uses less RAM and runs more efficiently on the Zero 2’s limited memory.

    While flashing the OS, it’s a good idea to enable SSH, assign a hostname like ‘pizero2‘, configure your Wi-Fi, and create your user account so the system is ready to go immediately after boot.

    Once booted, take a moment to explore the desktop, open a terminal to verify your hostname and IP address, and optionally run tools like htop to monitor system resource usage. You can also open Thonny to see how lightweight Python development is on this system.

    Installing Dependencies

    Before jumping into the projects, we need to install a few required packages. Start by updating your system:

    'sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade -y'

    Next, install the Python libraries and camera support:

    'sudo apt install python3-gpiozero python3-picamera2 -y'

    And finally, install FFmpeg for handling video processing:

    'sudo apt install ffmpeg -y'

    These dependencies will allow us to control GPIO pins, interface with the camera, and handle video recording.

    Project Setup: Motion Sensor and LED

    For the first project, we’ll connect a PIR motion sensor and an LED using a breadboard. Since the Pi Zero 2 WH already has GPIO headers, we can use jumper wires to connect everything directly.

    The motion sensor we’re using is the HC-SR501 PIR sensor. PIR stands for Passive Infrared, meaning it detects motion by sensing changes in heat—like when you move your hand in front of it. The sensor has three pins: VCC (power), GND (ground), and OUT (signal). The OUT pin connects to a GPIO input on the Pi, such as GPIO 17, while VCC connects to 5V and GND connects to any ground pin.

    On the breadboard, the LED is connected with a resistor for protection. The longer leg (anode) connects to GPIO 27, while the shorter leg (cathode) connects to ground. When motion is detected, the LED will turn on, and after a short delay, it will turn back off.

    Using Thonny for Python Development

    For all of these projects, we’re using Thonny, which comes pre-installed with Raspberry Pi OS. Thonny is a simple and beginner-friendly Python IDE that makes it easy to write, test, and run scripts directly on the Pi.

    You can open Thonny from the desktop or by running Thonny.

    We’re organizing our scripts into their own directory, and it’s important to make sure the folder has the correct permissions before running them. This helps avoid issues when accessing files or saving images and videos.

    For the full scripts used in this guide—including LED control, motion detection, and camera automation—be sure to check out my Patreon, where I’ve provided complete working examples.

    Adding a Camera for Motion Detection

    In the second project, we expand on the setup by adding a camera module that captures an image whenever motion is detected. We’re using an Arducam V2 8MP camera, which includes a ribbon cable specifically designed for the Pi Zero 2.

    To install it, power off the Pi, gently lift the CSI connector latch, insert the ribbon cable with the contacts facing the board, and secure it by pressing the latch back down. Once powered back on, the camera is ready to use with the Picamera2 library.

    If you encounter a “GPIO busy” error while running scripts, it usually means another process is already using the pins. You can stop it with:

    'sudo systemctl stop pir.service'

    Mounting a NAS for Video Storage

    For the final project, we take things a step further by recording video when motion is detected and saving it to a NAS. This is a great way to avoid filling up the Pi’s SD card.

    First, create a directory for the mount point if needed, then mount your NAS share using:

    'sudo mount -t cifs //NAS-IP/Pizero2 /home/username/shared -o username=NASUSERNAME,password="NASPASSWORD",uid=$(id -u),gid=$(id -g),file_mode=0666,dir_mode=0777'

    If your password contains special characters, make sure to wrap it in quotes. This command mounts the share temporarily for the session, which is perfect for testing.

    Once mounted, your Python script can save video files directly to the NAS location.

    Bringing It All Together

    By starting with a simple motion sensor and LED, then adding a camera and network storage, we’ve built a basic but functional surveillance system using the Raspberry Pi Zero 2. While it’s not meant to replace a dedicated solution like MotionEye, it’s a great demonstration of how powerful this small board can be when combined with Python and a few components.

    For a device with only 512MB of RAM, the Pi Zero 2 handles these projects surprisingly well and proves to be a capable option for lightweight automation tasks!

    Final Thoughts

    This project is a great introduction to working with GPIO, sensors, cameras, and network storage on the Raspberry Pi. If you want the full scripts and a deeper walkthrough of each project, make sure to check out my Patreon, where everything is available in the fre membership tier.

    Thanks for reading, and stay tuned for more Raspberry Pi and homelab content here on Mackey Tech!

  • What’s in my new Homelab for 2026?

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    My first homelab video goes all the way back to 2024, and since then, quite a bit has evolved. I’ve added a second Proxmox node, upgraded my network to 10 gig, and brought in a new NAS that’s become central to my workflow. Everything in this setup was purchased with my own money, with the exception of the ZimaBoard 2, which was sent over for review. If you’re into homelab tech, self-hosting, and NAS content, this is exactly the kind of setup I’ll continue building on.

    The Original Proxmox Server: From Workhorse to Test Bench

    At the core of my homelab is still my original Proxmox server, a Supermicro build I put together in 2022. It’s powered by a first-generation EPYC 3251 SoC with 8 cores and 16 threads, paired with 64GB of ECC RAM. It also includes four Ethernet ports and a dedicated IPMI interface, which has been invaluable for remote troubleshooting and management.

    Originally, this system handled all of my virtual machines and containers, but as the lab has grown, its role has shifted. These days, it serves more as a testing environment where I can spin up new VMs and LXCs, experiment with configurations, and build out tutorials without affecting anything critical.

    Over the past year, I’ve added a Home Assistant VM along with a USB Zigbee coordinator passed through to it. That setup lets me control seven studio lights, all connected via smart plugs, from a single remote instead of manually toggling each one. I also deployed CasaOS in an LXC and added Uptime Kuma to monitor both experimental and always-on services. More recently, I used another LXC to build out my WordPress site before pushing it live. Going forward, I plan to migrate key always-on services like Home Assistant and monitoring over to my newer node.

    Storage and Networking: Synology to UGREEN and the Move to 10GbE

    My Synology DS920+ was my primary NAS for years, but it has since been repositioned as a backup target. It now primarily backs up my newer UGREEN NAS, which has taken over as the main storage platform in my setup.

    Switching from Synology to UGREEN wasn’t a decision I made lightly. I’ve relied on Synology for a long time, but ultimately, UGREEN offered significantly better hardware specs at a more competitive price point. I have an entire video detailing my decision making process! I went with the DXP 6800 Pro, loaded it with four 8TB drives in a RAID 5 configuration, and added a 1TB NVMe drive for caching.

    With 8GB of RAM and dual 10 gig Ethernet ports, this unit has been a major upgrade. It currently handles media streaming through Jellyfin and runs Joplin in Docker, which I moved to as a self-hosted alternative to subscription-based note-taking platforms like Evernote. It’s also become my central archive for YouTube footage, and more recently, I’ve started editing videos directly off the NAS thanks to the increased network speed. In addition, it serves as a backup target for my Proxmox snapshots.

    That shift toward editing over the network is what drove my move to 10Gb. I picked up a 10 gig managed switch from QNAP with at least eight 10Gb ports. While I would’ve preferred to stay within the UniFi ecosystem, most of their offerings included PoE, which I didn’t need, and the RGB port design didn’t really appeal to me. The QNAP switch also supports multi-gig speeds—2.5, 5, and 10Gb—which adds a lot of flexibility.

    The rest of my network is built around a UniFi UDM Pro and a 16-port PoE switch powering five G4 cameras and two access points, including a WiFi 7 unit I added last year.

    The ZimaBoard 2: Expanding Into a Proxmox Cluster

    The newest addition to the lab is the ZimaBoard 2, which I’m using as a second Proxmox node. With that in place, I now have a small cluster, which means I can manage both systems from a single interface and start thinking more in terms of workload distribution rather than just capacity.

    The ZimaBoard comes with 16GB of RAM and 64GB of onboard eMMC, but instead of relying on the internal storage, I’m running Proxmox from a 256GB NVMe drive connected via PCIe. I’ve also attached two SATA SSDs for ISO storage and for running VMs and containers. Given the more limited RAM compared to my main node, I’ll likely favor LXCs here to keep things efficient.

    One of the first services I deployed on the ZimaBoard is Paperless, a document management system that makes it easy to tag, search, and organize files without relying on traditional folder structures. It also has a mobile app, which makes scanning and uploading documents straightforward.

    I’m also running an Ubuntu VM with a LAMP stack—Apache, MySQL, and phpMyAdmin—to track my eBay sales. It currently uses about 4GB of RAM, but I’m considering moving it into an LXC to reduce overhead. Containers are more lightweight and don’t necessarily consume all allocated memory, allowing unused resources to be shared back with the host.

    To compensate for the lack of built-in IPMI on the ZimaBoard, I added a JetKVM. It’s essentially an IP KVM with a web interface, giving me low-level access to the system even if the OS becomes unresponsive, which is a huge convenience for remote troubleshooting.

    Repurposed Hardware and Daily Drivers

    I also picked up a small firewall mini PC that I originally intended to run OPNsense on. After running into compatibility issues with UniFi Protect, I ended up repurposing it as an unmanaged switch in my office. It now doubles as a Fedora machine that I use fairly regularly, which ended up being a much more practical use for it in my setup.

    Looking Ahead: Automating the Workflow

    Looking forward, one of the next things I want to add is n8n to my Proxmox stack. The goal is to automate parts of my content workflow—things like publishing to social media and updating my website—so I’m not handling everything manually. It’s a natural next step as the lab becomes more integrated into my day-to-day work.

    Final Thoughts

    That’s where the homelab stands in 2026. It’s not over-the-top, but it’s a solid, practical setup that supports both my content creation and my interest in self-hosting. If you’re just getting started with homelabs, I’ve also put together a guide covering what to think about when building your first setup.

    If you found this helpful, consider subscribing and following along. And if you’re running your own homelab, I’d love to hear what you’re using and what you’re building.

  • Which One of These Gadgets Do You Use?

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    How I Actually Use My Tech Tools in My Homelab, Test Bench, and Studio

    In a previous video, I shared a list of tech tools I recommend—but that’s only part of the story. What really matters is how those tools are used in a real-world setup. It’s one thing to show a product; it’s another to demonstrate how it actually solves problems day to day.

    In this guide, I’m going to walk you through how these tools fit into my workflow across three main areas: my test bench, my homelab, and my studio. These aren’t just random gadgets—they’re tools I rely on regularly to make things more efficient, organized, and reliable.

    Everything featured here was purchased with my own money, with the exception of a portable monitor that was sent out for review. The goal here isn’t to sell you anything—it’s to show you practical use cases so you can decide what might actually improve your own setup.

    Why Setup Matters More Than the Tools Themselves

    Before jumping into specific tools, it’s worth calling out something important: tools are only as valuable as how they’re used.

    A lot of people fall into the trap of buying gear without a clear purpose. In reality, the best setups aren’t necessarily the most expensive—they’re the ones that reduce friction. That means:

    • Less time swapping cables
    • Less clutter
    • Faster workflows
    • More reliability

    Each tool I use is there because it removes a bottleneck or simplifies something that would otherwise slow me down.

    Test Bench: Efficient Hardware Testing Without the Chaos

    When you’re regularly testing different systems—whether it’s single-board computers, mini PCs, or full servers—things can get messy quickly. Constantly swapping cables, keyboards, and monitors is not only inefficient, it’s frustrating.

    KVM Switch: One Control Point for Multiple Systems

    One of the first tools I rely on at my test bench is a KVM switch (Keyboard, Video, Mouse).

    Instead of dedicating separate peripherals to every system I test, the KVM lets me control multiple machines using a single keyboard, monitor, and mouse. Everything plugs into the switch, and I can toggle between systems with the press of a button.

    For example, if I’m working with something like a Raspberry Pi alongside another system, I don’t need to unplug anything or switch monitor inputs. I just hit a button and instantly move between them.

    This does a few key things:

    • * Keeps the desk clean and organized
    • * Eliminates constant cable swapping
    • * Reduces the need for duplicate accessories

    Some KVM switches also include additional USB ports, which means you can share devices like external drives, webcams, or speakers across multiple systems.

    USB Hub: Expanding Limited Ports

    Another essential tool on my test bench is a USB hub, especially because one of my main editing systems is a Mac. Like many modern laptops, it’s limited in terms of ports.

    When I’m testing hardware or capturing footage, I often need to connect multiple devices at once—things like a capture card, external storage, or input devices. Instead of constantly unplugging and replugging cables, the USB hub acts as a central connection point.

    For example, I use it to connect an AverMedia capture card so I can record footage from test systems without disrupting my workflow. It’s a simple tool, but it removes a lot of friction when working across multiple devices.

    Storage and Speed: Why NVMe Matters

    Once everything is connected and running, performance becomes the next bottleneck—and that’s where NVMe storage comes in.

    NVMe Drives: The “Race Cars” of Storage

    NVMe drives are significantly faster than traditional SATA SSDs or hard drives. In my setup, I use NVMe storage in a few different ways.

    In my NAS, NVMe drives act as a high-speed layer for frequently accessed data. You can think of it like keeping your most-used files on the fastest possible storage. This makes a noticeable difference when:

    • * Transferring large files
    • * Scrubbing through video footage
    • * Accessing commonly used data

    Everything just feels more responsive.

    I’ve also used NVMe drives in external enclosures for more specialized tasks. For example, when working with boards that require USB boot—like certain compute modules—I can load operating system images directly from an NVMe enclosure. This speeds up setup and makes the process more flexible compared to traditional methods.

    Power Management: Cleaning Up the Workspace

    Power is one of those things you don’t think about—until it becomes a problem. Between test equipment, studio gear, and computers, cable clutter can get out of control fast.

    Power Station: Centralized Power, Less Clutter

    To simplify things, I use a power station across both my test bench and studio.

    Instead of running multiple power bricks and extension cables, I can plug everything into a single centralized unit. This helps in a few ways:

    • * Reduces cable clutter
    • * Makes it easier to manage power connections
    • * Keeps everything accessible in one place

    It might not be the most exciting piece of gear, but it has a big impact on how clean and functional the workspace feels.

    Homelab: Reliability and Protection

    In a homelab environment—especially one running servers and network equipment—reliability is critical.

    UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply): Protecting Your Data

    One thing I don’t compromise on is backup power.

    Sudden power loss can be more than just an inconvenience. For systems running spinning drives, it can lead to data corruption or even hardware damage.

    To prevent that, I use two separate UPS units:

    • * One dedicated to servers and NAS
    • * One dedicated to networking equipment

    Each UPS provides battery backup during a power outage, giving me enough time to safely shut everything down. This controlled shutdown is key to protecting both data and hardware.

    It’s one of those investments that you hopefully never “need”—but when you do, it can save you from major headaches.

    Studio: Smart Control and Automation

    The studio environment is where things shift from raw functionality to workflow optimization and control.

    Smart Devices and Zigbee: Local, Reliable Automation

    Lighting is a big part of any studio setup, and instead of relying on manual switches or cloud-based systems, I use smart devices powered by Zigbee.

    Zigbee is designed specifically for smart home devices, which makes it more reliable and responsive than typical Wi-Fi-based solutions.

    In my setup, I control six different lights using a Zigbee network and a remote. This allows me to create scenes—like turning everything off downstairs while activating specific lighting upstairs.

    What really makes this powerful is that I’m using Home Assistant instead of relying on something like Alexa. This gives me:

    • * Full control over automations
    • * Local operation (no cloud dependency)
    • * Custom configurations tailored to my workflow

    Everything runs locally, which means it’s faster, more private, and not dependent on an internet connection.

    A Tool That Works Everywhere: Portable Monitor

    Some tools are specialized—but others end up being useful everywhere. For me, that’s the portable monitor.

    Portable Monitor: Flexible Display Anywhere

    This has turned out to be one of the most versatile tools in my setup.

    On the test bench, it acts as a secondary display when working with multiple systems. In the studio, it becomes a field monitor for my camera—especially useful for overhead shots and B-roll where the built-in camera screen isn’t enough.

    Even in my homelab, it’s been useful for troubleshooting servers. Because it’s lightweight and uses a full-size HDMI connection, I can quickly hook it up to different systems without needing a permanent monitor setup.

    It also mounts to a tripod, which helps save space while keeping it flexible and portable.

    Bringing It All Together

    At the end of the day, my setup isn’t about having the most advanced or expensive gear—it’s about reducing friction.

    Each tool serves a purpose:

    • * The KVM switch eliminates constant cable swapping
    • * The USB hub expands connectivity
    • * NVMe drives improve speed and responsiveness
    • * The power station keeps everything organized
    • * The UPS protects critical systems
    • * Smart devices streamline control and automation
    • * The portable monitor adds flexibility across environments

    Individually, these might seem like small upgrades—but together, they create a setup that’s much smoother and easier to work with.

    Final Thoughts

    This is what my setup actually looks like day to day. Nothing over the top—just practical tools that make everything run more efficiently.

    If you’re building out your own homelab, test bench, or studio, the key takeaway is this: focus on solving problems, not just adding gear.

    Think about what slows you down, what creates clutter, and what could be simplified. Then choose tools that directly address those issues.

    What About Your Setup?

    I’d be interested to hear what tools you rely on in your own setup.

    What devices have made the biggest difference for you? What problems have you solved with them?

    If you found this guide helpful, I have a follow up video where I go into more detail about how I actually many of these products in my own homelab!

    And as always—thanks for reading.

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